Entries from November 27th, 2012

>> Lights and Lanterns – Thailand’s Loi Krathong/Yi Peng Festival >>

27Nov

It always seems like there’s some cool celebration, festival or holiday going on…somewhere else.  I’ve never been to Oktoberfest, Holi, the running of the bulls or Glastonbury BUT for once I’m in the right place at the right time.

Yi Peng

Thailand’s Loi Krathong festival is known as ‘Yi Peng’ in the north

Every year on the full moon of the 12th lunar month, Thailand celebrates ‘Loi Krathong’ (ลอยกระทง), or Yi Peng (ยี่เป็ง) as it’s known in the north.  To those outside of Thailand it’s best known as ‘That Lantern festival’ – and for good reason – there are a lot of lanterns.

Lighting the Lantern - Yi Peng

Lighting our floating lantern (khom loi)

Though festivities happen throughout the country, Chiang Mai is by far the best place to experience this beautiful holiday of lights, floats, fireworks and lanterns.  (To learn more about the holiday and how it’s celebrated check out my guide to Loi Krathong on Wanderlust and Lipstick.)  While the actual holiday falls on the full moon, there is a always a huge lantern release several days before, about 30 minutes outside of Chiang Mai in the town on Mae Jo.  This year Loi Krathong will be celebrated on November 28th and 29th, but the stunning release was this past Saturday.

Thousands of people gather at a Buddhist temple for a special meditation ceremony then the release of thousands of floating lanterns into the night sky.  It’s incredible how something so simple as a lit up bag slowing rising in the sky can be so mesmerizing.  There really are no words for the sensational sight…so I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Getting ready to launch - Yi Peng

Yi Peng

For hours of waiting and protecting our spot on the temple grounds (and then getting stranded in a sudden lightning storm with no power and having our driver ditch us)…this was our reward:

Floating Lanterns - Yi Peng

This is it…

Worth it.

Can’t get enough of the photos?  Go to the Paper Planes Facebook Page for more!

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>> Moment in: Penang >>

26Nov
Rain in Penang

Rain in Penang

It’s the end of the rainy season, and while I was in Penang last month the sky let loose a couple of times.  There’s not much you can do except find cover and wait it out.  (Unless you need to get to work, then you suck it up, jump on your motorbike and squint your eyes.)

Only when you’re traveling would you not be bothered by a sudden downpour and spend your time stuck on the side of the road taking photos of a crumbling building and garbage…

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>> Old vs. New >>

23Nov

I’ve always appreciated the old and natural over the new and plastic.  I like old buildings, old cars, old clothes.  I majored in history and have often felt like I should be living in a different decade.  I prefer making things with my hands than working online.  I don’t have a smartphone.

When I first moved to Thailand several things stood out to me as being ‘old fashioned’ or done in a more natural way than at home.  More clothes are made or fitted by hand.  Tailor shops and single seamstresses working out of their front room are everywhere to make custom clothing and resize school uniforms.  In a time when less people are even wearing watches, here you can get your broken timepiece fixed by a man with a little stand on the side of the street.  Along with getting your shoes resoled.

Samlors in Chiang Mai

Samlors waiting outside a market

Some more examples – above are old-style bicycle taxis known as samlors.  Naturally, before the onslaught of cars and motorbikes, they used to be used much more frequently, and today are mainly reduced to a tourist attraction of sorts.  The only people that seem to use them seriously are old Thai ladies going to and from the fresh markets.

Old letterpress

When I was taking my TEFL course I walked past this print shop everyday where they have not one, but TWO classic Heidelberg letterpresses that they use for printing…fliers.  Fliers!  And invitations, but still.  Here you see one of the press and racks of type that the man who owns the shop and his son have to set by hand for each design.

Traditional Thai Wooden House

Traditional Thai houses were made of teak and raised on stilts to avoid flooding damage and, well, tigers. Though there are still several of these types of houses around, many are worn down and no new ones are being built.  You can see in the image below an older house by newer buildings and hotels.

Sweeta Wrapped in Banana Leaves

Southeast Asia is the world’s winner for using the most plastic bags possible.  It’s not just that there’s no awareness about trying to use reusable bags instead of plastic when going to the market or grocery store; it’s like there’s an unspoken competition to use as many bags for your purchases as physically possible.  I’ve literally bought three small things before and had them placed into three separate bags.  I don’t get it.  My favorite is when I see someone buy a bottle of tea or can of soda, have it put in a bag to carry out, then open it up and start drinking still hold on to the bag.

Anyway, on the other end of the spectrum, gigantic banana leaves are abundant and often used to wrap, package and cook in.  Above are Thai sweets made from coconut milk that are cooked and then sold in their banana leaf wrappers – so simple, green and sustainable.  Sometimes you can get fried noodle dishes off the street served on a banana leaf instead of in a styrofoam box.  Perfect.

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>> A Day in Ayutthaya >>

21Nov

During my last visit to Bangkok, I took a day trip to the ancient kingdom of Ayutthaya.  About an hour (well, technically one hour, but more like three due to traffic…) outside of Bangkok, Ayutthaya  existed from 1350 – 1767 when the Burmese invaded and took the city.

Temples in Ayutthaya

In its heyday, Ayutthaya boasted three palaces and 400 temples.  Today the city has grown around the ruined temples and crumbling chedis.

Monk in Ayutthaya

Monks in Ayutthaya

At the height of its power Ayutthaya was said to be just as grand as the European capitals at that same time.  It’s easy to see that the ancient capital was massive, but the ruins that are left – a shadow of what once was.  While it can’t compare to the temples of Angkor or Bagan, there’s still a lot to see – perfect for a day trip – especially for anyone who appreciates some good temple-hopping.

Ayutthaya Buddhas

I really didn’t know much about Ayutthaya, or what to expect, before I went.  I originally had seen a picture on a postcard three years ago, when I first came to Thailand for a two-week holiday, of the famous Buddha head wrapped in a tree trunk at Wat Mahathat and it stuck in my memory.  I knew that if when I made it back to Thailand I wanted to see it in real life – that was my true motivation for trying to get there.  And it was beautiful.

Buddha Head in Ayutthaya

 

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>> Moment of: Gratitude >>

19Nov
Buddhist Teaching in Chiang Mai

Wat Phra Singh >> Chiang Mai

Words to remember.

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>> Grand Palace Patterns >>

14Nov

The Grand Palace buildings and grounds are so massive and intricately decorated that it’s hard to know where to look.

Grand  Palace

Which is why instead of trying to capture the buildings as a whole, I instead focused on wandering around and appreciating the painstakingly detailed patterns, mosaics, mirrors and carvings.

Grand Palace Patterns 1

Grand Palace Patterns 2

Grand Palace Patterns - mosaic

Even all the roofs are individually tiled.

Grand Palace Roof Tiles

Grand Palace Patterns 3

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>> Moment in: Chiang Dao >>

12Nov

Since I’ve been away from home I have been much better at appreciating the little things, pausing throughout the day to notice something new or stopping for a moment to realize how lucky I am to experience whatever beautiful, funny, confusing place I happen to be in.

Each Monday, I’ll post a quick blurb about something that has struck me in someway.

Sooo…

Cave Temple in Chiang Dao

When I think of Chiang Dao, about an hour and a half outside of Chiang Mai, I picture stunning mountains, lush jungle, and lots of green.  This is probably my only photo from a two-night getaway to Chiang Dao that doesn’t involve trees or plants…it was also probably one of my only moments – ever – while exploring a new place that I actually felt like I had found something.

We stumbled across an entry to a cave on the edge of some temple grounds.  There was building going on and it looked off limits, but the local woman sweeping beckoned us to go in and look.  A shrine, a nun and no one else around.

>>

To read more about Chiang Dao, check out ‘Chillaxin’ in Chiang Dao’ over at Wanderlust and Lipstick.

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>> Why I’m Not Going Home Yet >>

09Nov

When I first came to Thailand I thought I might be gone for about a year – teach a little bit and travel around SE Asia, then head to Australia and New Zealand, and ideally make my way home via Europe.  That was in May 2011.

Instead, I haven’t even managed to get out of SE Asia (wait, does India count?).  And I still want to see all those other places.

Chiang Mai Mailbox

I even have a mailbox

What it comes down to though isn’t about checking places off my list or adding stamps to my passport.  The real reason is that, even though I have now lived in Chiang Mai for more than a year, I still do/see/learn/eat/realize/experience something new everyday.

Everyday.

And that’s what’s keeping me here, for now.  Yes, you can learn, do or see something new everyday at home, but it’s more difficult.  You do the commute to and from work without actually being aware of what you’re doing.  You get used to your surroundings/routines/habits/expectations.  And that’s not a bad thing – it just makes it more difficult to recognize the new and experience something different.

I know the time will come when I want more stability, predictability and a home that feels like I’ll be staying there for a while.  But for now, I love the fact that I can still walk down the street and notice something new, learn something about where I am or appreciate something so little as realizing there’s a papaya tree in my back yard.  It’s the little things that make me stop and think or stick in my mind more than the big ones like, say, going on holiday to a new island or zip lining for the first time.

Ziplining in Chiang Mai

I hope that by the time I do go home or settle down in a place, I will be able to remember not to get too caught up in the familiar and still actively seek out or notice new things all around me.

What keeps you traveling?  Or how do you find new things to excite you at home?

Thai banner

 

 

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>> Bangkok and The Grand Palace >>

08Nov

Recently I made a trip down to Bangkok.  I had been to the city four times before, and while there were always enjoyable or interesting parts of my visits, I was always ready to leave after two or three days thinking,”I could never live here”.

Bangkok View

view from the hotel room

I still don’t think I could live there or, at least, I would never choose too.  But after this stay, I left actually kind of liking Bangkok.  It took me FIVE visits, including one with someone who was from and had lived in Bangkok for years, to warm up to the place, but it’s definitely growing on me.

Longtail Boat on the Chao Praya

One of the highlights of the visit was going to the Grand Palace.  Yes, I know it’s super touristy.  Yes, at 450 baht per person, it’s pricey (compared to almost everything else) to get in.  Yes, there are a ton of people just taking pictures of the same things.  BUT you have to do it, and it really is incredible.

The Grand Palace, Bangkok

I had been there three years ago, when I originally came to Thailand for a vacation, and remember it being just beautiful.  Probably the most beautiful set of buildings I’d ever seen.

Walking into the Grand Palace

My memory served me correctly and visiting for a second time didn’t disappoint.  (Although it was uncomfortably hot…)  The palace, built in 1782, was home to the reigning Thai king for 150 years.  The grounds include courtyards, government buildings, receptions halls and Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew).  What really matters though, is that the place is stunning  and truly should not be missed when in Bangkok.

At the Grand Palace

Grand Palace Guard

Grand Palace Trees

What ‘must-see’ sight has taken your breath away?

Grand Palace Gold

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>> Street Art – Georgetown, Penang >>

06Nov

Last month I made a quick trip to Penang, Malaysia.  Staying in Georgetown was the perfect spot to spend my time wandering around the little streets and keeping an eye art for gems like these:

Penang Street Art - Bicycle

Since Georgetown was made a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 2007, there has been a sustained effort to draw in local and foreign artists to decorate the streets.

Penang Street Art Sculpture

Some of my favorite pieces I saw were done by a Lithuanian artist.  Unfortunately I only noticed two of his clever pieces, the first image in this post and this:

Penang Street Art Motorbike

Penang Street Art Motorbike 2

Some rogue street artists have also joined in.

Penang Street Art Hearts

Penang Street Art Wall Grafitti

Penang Street Art Birds

Penang Street Art Dying

>>

To read more about Malaysia, check out my posts at Wanderlust & Lipstick.

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