Entries from January 30th, 2013

>> A Tale of Two Temples >>

30Jan

It’s no secret that I love all the Buddhist temples or wats.  I go to new ones every week, can’t stop taking photos of the same ones over and over, and have even gone on a 7-hour motorbike ride to visit one that’s supposedly special for my birthday.  On New Year’s Day I spent the morning with a certain someone going around town to nine different wats.  The number 9 is considered lucky in Thailand as it sounds similar to the word for ‘move forward’.  Therefore, making merit (giving donations or offerings) at nine temples at the start of the new year is supposed to bring good luck.

Wat Pan Tao, Chiang Mai, Thailand

New Year’s Day at Wat Pan Tao

I’ve heard many people of the mindset that ‘once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all’.  I can understand this – many temples do look similar and obviously have the same themes, designs and motifs – but I still would disagree. Two of my favorite temples in Chiang Mai (which is saying something since there are more than 300 in the city and surrounding area) couldn’t look more different from each other.

Wat Pan Tao (วัดพันเตา)

Monk at Wat Pan Tao, Chiang Mai

Located in the center of the old city, Wat Pan Tao is one of the few remaining wooden temples in town.  Compared to many of the large, white-washed temples (including the massive Wat Chedi Luang just next door), Wat Pan Tao is small and unassuming but still intriguing – I can’t help but smile every time I pass by.

Wooden Wat Pan Tao, Chiang Mai

Wat Pan Tao, Chiang Mai

Its beauty lies in its simplicity – plain teak wood with decorative gold touches.

Inside Wat Pan Tao, Chiang Mai

The temple’s smaller size makes Wat Pan Tao more inviting than others, while the dark wood creates a warm richness of its own.  It feels full of belief and tradition without being overwhelming or flashy.

Wat Srisuphan (วัดศรีสุพรรณ)

Wat Srisuphan Shrine, Chiang Mai

While at first glance it may look like the White Temple in Chiang Rai, Wat Srisuphan is actually just off Chiang Mai’s Saturday Walking Street (Wualai Road) and..silver.

Wat Srisuphan Shrine in Chiang Mai

Don’t tell me you see this everyday…

Throughout Thailand different areas or villages have traditionally had a specialty craft or trade.  Just outside of Chiang Mai there are villages known specifically for their woodcarvings, silk, handmade umbrellas and more.  Locals know if they want knew furniture to go to Baan Tawai…or if you want silver you should head to Wualai Road.  Historically, the area around Wualai was home to many silver and jewelery craftsmen.  Today the street is still lined with specialty shops where you can get silver jewelery and silverware straight from the source.

Wat Sriphum is in the middle of all this and in 2004 started a project to create what it calls, ‘The World’s First Silver Shrine’, or ubosot in Thai.

Silvermaking at Wat Srisuphan, Chiang Mai

Work in progress

The ubosot has been rebuilt and restored several times throughout the years, but the current Abbot began the initiative to cover the building in silver.  The coverings – inside and out – are all handmade by local, Northern Thai artists mainly out of alloy and zinc, though real silver is used for the holy images.  The project has also developed an active a silversmith workshop and learning center on temple grounds to help production and train new craftsmen.  Throughout the day you’ll hear the tap, tap, tap of tools hammering out new designs and coverings.

Roof of Wat Srisuphan Shrine, Chiang Mai

Still think all temples look the same?

Been to Thailand – where was your favorite wat?  Tell me in the comments section below and for more Chiang Mai pictures go to the Paper Planes Facebook Page!

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>> Moment in: Vang Vieng >>

28Jan

Vang Vieng, Laos

Situated two hours north of Vientiane in Laos, Vang Vieng is (in)famous for drunken wasted incoherent backpackers, tubing the river between countless bars, mud volleyball, rope swings and water slides, then wasting away resting in restaurants that all serve the same thing and that all have Friends and Family Guy episodes on 24/7 repeat.  (Actually, this stop on the backpacker trail may be no longer…or at least very, very different.)

When backpacking solo around SE Asia I almost didn’t go to Vang Vieng.  It sounded like it could be fun…but more likely that it would just be one big hot mess and I would be irritated being by myself and surrounded by drunken groups of gap year students.  I’d heard that it was tourism gone way, way wrong.  The town was ruined.  I went anyway telling myself I could check it off the list and leave the next day if I wanted to.

And while I feel kind of funny admitting it…I enjoyed myself more there than any other place in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.  Yes, all the rumors were true, but at the same time, I met a good group of people who stuck together for several days, I hadn’t watched any TV in months so it was a nice break to be able to veg out a bit with cheap food, beer and Joey and Chandler…and Vang Vieng is really, really beautiful.

The karst mountains you see in the background of the photo are fascinating and look so exotic compared to mountains I know at home.  To float down the river (after the bars) and be surrounded by these mountains, jungle and greenery was magical (maybe someone who was comatose at this point would disagree with me but…).  And there’s more to Vang Vieng than baguette sandwiches, beer and bars.  We went kayaking, we explored caves along the river where we had to pull ourselves through in an inner tube because the opening was too low, and the water too deep to walk through, we saw Buddha shrines and views of the sleepy little huts.  Aside from the partying and bars, it really was peaceful and beautiful.  Will I ever go back?  No, probably not…but I’m glad I did and have this moment in my memory.

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>> In case you didn’t know, it’s 2013 >>

24Jan

I hate saying it, but I felt kind of apathetic about the New Year.  I didn’t even hear the countdown to midnight though I was in the center of it all in Chiang Mai – one moment I knew it was getting close to 12:00 and the next moment fireworks were going off – but I DIDN’T HEAR THE COUNTDOWN.  Does it count if you don’t hear the countdown?  It didn’t feel like it…

New Year's Eve 2013, Chiang Mai

Here it is, already the end of January, and I still couldn’t tell you a set plan, resolution or direction for 2013.  I don’t need things completely laid out, but it would be nice to have a little more clarity on what I will be spending this year doing.

I didn’t start Paper Planes to be another travel guide posting about the best spots and must-see attractions and can’t-be-missed activities.  I’m not always on the move and often don’t care too much about getting off the beaten path.

There are plenty of other blogs, resources, guide books, review sites, booking sites and travelers out there that have probably already said it all and can do it much better than I.  I’ve traveled a decent a bit, in a range of ways (and comfort), and have a good sense about things, but I’m not attempting to be your go-to guide for all things travel.  Personally, I hate all the hyperbole and don’t have the time to to study things to the point where I can offer a ‘guide’.  I usually don’t plan and research my trips extensively and therefore sometimes the posts on here may be a little haphazard as well – but real.

While I love sharing about traveling and living abroad, I also feel like this whole bloggy thing is an experiment in helping me figure out which direction(s) to go in my life and connect with others who are in similar situations.  I love learning about different people, cultures and lifestyles – but I also appreciate hearing about people just like me who I can identify, empathize and learn with.  It’s always reassuring to know someone else is having the same doubts, questions, problems, triumphs and experiences as you…especially when you’re trying to grow up and get your life in order (which I’m starting to realize is a never ending process).

What do I want to do?  Where do I want to be?  What do I want my life to be like?  What do I have control over and what do I have to accept?  These questions will stick with you throughout your life, but I think they’re especially prevalent in your 20s when, for the first time since kindergarten, you don’t have a set path laid out in front of you.  That takes some time getting used to and figuring out.

I left home because I didn’t want to wake up 2, 5, 10 years down the line and realize I was in the exact same spot I had been in after college.

Street art in Penang, Malaysia

You don’t need to leave home to find yourself, but for me that’s how I wanted to try going about things.  If I thought I could grow and create the wide range of experiences I’ve had while living abroad at home, I would be in the States now.  But I’m here.  And trying to work things out on my own terms.

I guess what I’m trying to say is that past few weeks have been spent thinking a lot about what I am doing, why I am blogging and what I want to be working toward…and I’m finally ready to refocus my intentions and get this year started.

Hopefully with a trip to the beach sometime in the near future…this is a travel blog after all.

 

If you’re in the same boat as me, you may want to check out these other travelers and writers who are also figuring out life one place at a time:

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>> Moment of: Trying to Teach >>

13Jan

Teaching English in Thailand

It already seems like a long time ago, but I was teaching here for quite a while.  Highschoolers, adults, primary students, 2- to 4-year-olds…

I obviously was lacking in the discipline department…

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>> 3 Different Day Trips from Chiang Mai >>

09Jan

Despite my last post being a little…questioning…I love Chiang Mai – I mean, I’ve stayed here about a year longer than I initially expected.  I’m kind of a fan.  But the town it itself can be…dingy.  There are some really charming, even beautiful, spots and the city is relatively clean, but there are also a lot of areas that look worn out.  There aren’t a ton of trees or green spaces, and hastily thrown together ‘coffee shops’, tourist agencies and guest houses clutter the streets.  If someone was only passing through town and here for a couple of days I could understand if they were…underwhelmed.

The real beauty of Chiang Mai lies outside of town in the country roads, hills and jungles.  And while it may seem easier to stay in around the city center, it really doesn’t take much effort to go further out.

View from Mon Cham

View from Mon Cham

The best thing about being able to live or spend more time in a place is discovering the things, places and activities outside of the immediate tourist track.  I never would have heard about or gone to the following three spots if I hadn’t spent a lot of time here, but they’re each an easy trip just outside of town perfect for a morning excursion or afternoon break.

Huay Tung Tao – One of the most simple and enjoyable things I’ve done here is spend an afternoon at lake Huay Tung Tao.  Located just a quick 25-30 minutes from Chiang Mai’s city center, visitors can spend hours in a cabana by the water ordering drinks and dishes to share from the restaurants situated around the lake.

Huay Tung Tao, Chiang Mai

  • Go: Get a motorbike and head toward Mae Rim on Canal Road.  You’ll see signs (in English) for Huay Tung Tao on your left.  You could also talk a tuk tuk into taking you out there or get a group of people to rent a songthaew (shared truck taxi).  The driver can work out a deal to take you there and pick you up to come back at a specified time.  *Note: there is a 20 baht fee to get onto the park grounds.  Parking is free.

The Samoeng Loop – It’s no secret that I love motorbikes.  Whether driving or riding, I’m completely content to spend all day watching everything pass by.  It really is the best way to see Northern Thailand (and Southeast Asia general) and isn’t as intimidating as it might seem when you first touch down in the Land of Smiles.  There are plenty of drives just outside of town and one of the best is the Samoeng Loop.  Good roads, interesting stops and great views make the trip an easy getaway.  While the first part of the drive takes you through I guess what you would call Thai suburban sprawl, once you get on the main road and away from town the hills will open up for you.

Sameong Loop, Chiang Mai 1

Sameong Loop, Chiang Mai 2

  • Go: From the old city’s north gate, head north (again toward Mae Rim) on Highway 107.  After about 15 minutes turn left onto Highway 1096…that’s it.  From here you will loop around emerging to the south of the City on Canal Road.  If you’re going quickly the loop could take just 90 minutes or so…but if you have more time you can drag it out stopping along the way.  For more details check out this guide.

Mon Cham – A Royal Project site (Thailand’s Royal Family has various agricultural projects throughout the country helping villages and hill tribes better produce crops), Mon Cham is essentially a strawberry field in the hills – with a killer view (just look at the first photo).  Enjoy the drive up (less than an hour and a half from town) Come here for the nice drive and stay for lunch at the garden’s outdoor restaurant situated right on the ridge.  While not many tourists know about the spot, Thais certainly do and travel up here for numerous photo opps.  At 9am on a Friday morning I was one of two foreigners taking in the view, but was surprised by the number of songthaews, cars and tour minivans that were already there.  It still didn’t feel overcrowded though and was a great example of how Thai people love sightseeing…and taking pictures.  For those who want to stay longer, there’s camping (tents and bungalows) at Mon Cham as well as at several spots on the road up.

Restaurant at Mon Cham

Restaurant with a view at Mon Cham

Mon Cham Garden - Chiang Mai

  • Go: Like the Sameong Loop, head toward Mae Rim on Highway 107 and turn left at Highway 1096.  Go past the elephants farms and botanical gardens until you see signs for Nong Hoi/Mon Cham and turn right.  Once you turn right it’s about nine kilometers of steep incline.  Mon Cham is at the very top of the hill when you can’t go any further.  There’s a 10-20B fee for parking but no entrance fee.

Live or spent some time in Chiang Mai?  What did I miss?  Tell me your favorite day trip spot in the comments below.  for more photos check out the Paper Planes Facebook Page.

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>> Moment on: A Boat >>

07Jan

4,000 Islands, Laos

Heading to one of the 4,000 Islands in Laos.

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>> The Honeymoon’s Over >>

03Jan

I first visited Thailand more than three years ago for a quick trip.  Before those two weeks were even up, I already knew that I wanted to return and spend more time soaking up this country.  It felt so alive – dirty and beautiful – somewhere that felt completely new to me but where I could be completely comfortable at the same time.  The delicious, cheap food didn’t hurt either.

Mae Rim

When I left home and moved to Chiang Mai I thought it would be a good place to start traveling through SE Asia.  I didn’t think I’d still be living here 16 months later.  But I loved it.  Not everything was great, but the good, new and interesting far outweighed the frustrations, work challenges and mosquito bites.

But now things have…shifted.  I still love it – I always will – but while I used to feel like I was growing, learning and seeing everything around me with fresh eyes, I’m now starting to feel a little too settled, familiar and less appreciative of everything around me.  Minor things have started to bother me – like having to pay ‘foreigner fees’ for certain places, making small social or cultural errors, and trying to dodge the tourists slowly meandering down the middle of the street.

I’m getting closer to the point where I feel like Chiang Mai, and Thailand, have given me almost all they can…for now.  I’ve tried most of the foods, I’ve been to the temples literally hundreds of times, I’m sick of the constant mosquito bites and people calling me a farang.

Wat Phra Singh in Chiang Mai

I truly will never get sick of the temples though…Wat Phra Singh in Chiang Mai

The honeymoon’s over.

But that doesn’t mean I’m desperate to leave.  It’s more complicated than that.  In the time that I’ve been here I’ve collected experiences, relationships and attachments (mainly a strong penchant for sticky rice, sweetened condensed milk and navigating Thai traffic…) that I don’t know if I’m ready to let go of yet.  Chiang Mai has a way of kind of sucking you in…it’s very easy to be comfortable and content here.  And the weather is just about perfect.

So what to do?

How do you know when it’s time to call it quits and move on when you know you’ll be leaving part of yourself behind?  Let me know your thoughts in the comments below.

Chiang Mai from Doi Suthep

View of Chiang Mai taken from Doi Suthep

 

 

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