Entries Tagged as 'Expat Living'

>> I’m going home…and I’m scared >>

17May

I’m going home next week for the first time in more than a year and the entire thing kind of scares me.

I want to go home.  It’s time.  I need it.  I want to see my family and friends and eat cheese and Mexican food and bake and sleep in my bed and see Mt. Rainier and go out to happy hour with friends and not sweat constantly or be eaten alive by mosquitoes.  I need and want all of that.  But it’s not as simple as just being able  to look forward to catching up with people and eating the foods I’ve missed.

The thing is, I don’t know if I’m coming back to Thailand, or assuming I do, when that would be.  Which is problematic considering a) I love it and b) I have someone.  Oops.

When I first made the move to Southeast Asia, I bought a one-way ticket without a second thought.  This time, buying another one-way ticket home, was difficult.  While originally I was also full of doubt, questions and uneasiness, there was also a lot of excitement, anticipation and readiness to go.  I was ready for something different, for a new adventure and to be on my own.  Now, I have different doubts and questions, along with a really unwelcome feeling of indecisiveness and being lost.

Buddha in Autthaya, Thailand

In the beginning I thought traveling and living abroad would help point me in the right direction of where I want to be and what I want to be doing with my life.  Ultimately, I think it will…but at the moment I feel more directionless than I did to begin with.  That wasn’t supposed to happen…

I’ll be leaving Thailand exactly two years after I originally arrived.  During that time I’ve become TEFL-certified and taught English in a variety of Thai schools, backpacked through India, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, lived on my own, learned to ride a motorbike, (tried to) learn a new language, got familiar with visa runs and my passport number, fought constantly with mosquitoes and cockroaches, made several friends and saw many of them come and go, showed family and friends from home my new, adopted home.  I’ve gotten used to squat toilets, cold showers, eating rice for breakfast, never wearing a seat belt, riding a motorbike in the rain, nothing being on time and drinking beer with ice.  While those will be easy to get used to not having or doing, there are other things that I think have changed me more and will take more time to adjust to.

Food Stalls in Chiang Mai

Like the price of food…

My concept and perception of money is completely screwed up.  Spending a couple dollars on a full meal is normal and a glass of wine is a splurge.  I can get my motorbike serviced and washed for less than half of what a tank of gas will cost at home.  My way of driving has completely changed – from driving on the left-side of the road, swerving in between traffic and not thinking twice about driving up the side of the road the wrong way – what will I feel like behind the wheel of a car in America?

I’m also (more) used to a completely different set of customs, social rules and behaviors.  I’ve been surrounded by Buddhism instead of Christianity, holding your tongue instead of spouting off, and being patient no matter what the situation.

What’s going to happen when I get home?  And what am I going to do next?

 

 

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>> 5 Tips for Expat Living >>

14May

After two years of living abroad, there are a few things that have come up and again that make life and settling down in a foreign place a little easier.

5 Tips for Expat Living

Be patient

Things will go wrong, you won’t understand what’s happening around you and will get frustrated, but if you’re patient everything ends up working itself out.

Ask for help

Chances are there are plenty of expats who have been in your position before with the same questions, problems or frustrations.  There are a ton of Facebook Groups made up of expats living in Chiang Mai where people post everything from questions and concerns, to new apartments and special event information.  If you ask for help, you’ll probably get it and save yourself some headache for trying to figure things out on your own.

Learn the language

I’m still shocked about the number of people who live here who can barely even order food.  It’s embarrassing.  Even if you don’t have to use the native language to get by, still try.  You’re choosing to live in the country, and a country’s language and culture are completely intertwined.  Knowing how to speak and read the language around will open up your world and understanding of the place.

Limit your tie with ‘home’

It’s important to keep in touch with people and happenings back at home, but if you spend too much time trying to stay connected you’ll miss out on your current life.

Make local connections

It sounds obvious, but isn’t always simple to do.  However, the sooner you’re able to make connections and build relationships with those in your new community the better.  Having someone to turn to who knows the area better than you is invaluable.

These tips are from an interview I did for Expats Blog, read more here.

 

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>> Moment in: Mae Sai >>

22Apr
can you spot the shopkeeper?

Can you spot the shopkeeper?

After living in Northern Thailand for a while chances are you’ll get used to (and bored of) visa runs to the Thai-Burmese border at Mae Sai.  There’s really not much there to hold your interest too long – on either side of the border – and while I hate the feeling of just wanting to sit and wait for the bus back, after one or two trips you’ve pretty much seen it all.  Markets stalls, more market stalls, and more market stalls selling dried goods, cheap clothes, electronics and fake watches.

So I’ve made a game of wandering around killing time called, ‘Spot the Shopkeeper’.  Do you see the two in the photos above?

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>> Surprising Money Sucks in Thailand >>

11Apr

Last week I wrote about how much money I made teaching in Thailand and monthly break down of my expenses here.  Today, I want to call out some money sucks of living and traveling in Thailand.

Phad Thai

Cheap phad thai is not one them, beer can be…

While it’s incredibly affordable to live and travel here, I’ve still heard many people complain that they’re spending a lot of money and don’t think it’s as cheap as they’ve heard.

Mmkay.  Actually it is, but perhaps because it’s so affordable you’re spending more, since your money goes further and you don’t have to be as budget-conscious as in other places.

A couple examples – #1:  I’ve never spent money on massages or spa treatments in the U.S.  Here I will regularly go for a massage costing anywhere from about $6 – 8 for a two-hour Thai massage at a small shop, to $35 for a package (massage, facial, body scrub) at a nicer place.  (Of course, there’s also the really high end places that can charge into the hundreds, but are still more bang for your buck than at home.)  So, I’ve spent much more money here on spa trips than I ever did at home, yet got much more for the same amount than I would have at home.

#2: You’d probably be careful of your food expenses traveling through Europe, maybe saving that banana from breakfast or making sandwiches to last you for a few days.  Here, that really wouldn’t help you much when you can get a hot and and fresh meal for about $1 (I regularly post what you can buy for $1 on my Facebook Page).  If you can eat dinner for as little as $1, then that means more cash for booze!  And there goes your  money…

Chang Beer

Goodbye money, hello Chang-over…

There are things that quickly eat into your budget however.  Even if they’re relatively cheap compared to the prices you’re used to at home, once you think about how much you can actually stretch your dollar here, those things don’t seem like such a good deal anymore.  Keep in mind that $1 equals about 30 baht.

  • Snacks and soda – When you know a meal can be as little as $1, it’s hard to justify spending the same amount on soda (cans of Coke cost 14 – 15 baht, or about 50 cents), chips or sweets from 7-11.
  • Alcohol – It may be cheaper than home, but relatively speaking alcohol is actually pretty pricey here and can easily add up, especially depending on where you’re doing your drinking.  A large bottle of beer at the store is 45 – 55 baht, but prices can be jacked up to 120 baht or more.  Cocktails, even at decently-priced places start around 90 baht and quickly go up, particularly when you ask for a name brand or imported spirit.
  • Water – While I still use the tap water to brush my teeth and wash my dishes (I know it’s safe enough at my home and in the area where I live, but I wouldn’t do this everywhere), I never drink or cook with it.  That means I need to buy it bottled.  There are several ways to keep the cost, and amount of plastic waste, down, but the big one is to buy the largest container of water possible.  You can get 1.5 liter bottles everywhere, which is good, but it’s better if you purchase a 5 liter bottle then fill up smaller containers as needed.
  • Yoga – It’s not overly expensive, but it’s not cheap either.  Classes in Chiang Mai cost about $6 – 8 for 1.5 hours.  This is still a fine price, but it is definitely something to consider while figuring out your budget and what other things you can get for the same amount of money.  Many people take a mini-bus between Chiang Mai and the popular little mountain town of Pai.  The ticket for the three-hour journey is 150 baht, less than one yoga class.
  • Gyms – I spent more for a gym membership here than I did at home at about $40 a month.
  • Cheese and wine – Usually, I base my happiness level on how much cheese, wine (and chocolate) I’m able to consume.  Here I’ve had to change that measurement as cheese and wine is EXPENSIVE and usually not worth it.  The cheapest bottle of so-so wine I can find is around $12 and cheese is a luxury.  Sometimes, though, after living off of rice for a while it’s a splurge that just has to be made!
  • Tuk tuks – Tuks tuks are the most expensive form of local transportation and you never know if you’re going to get a good deal.  I love ‘em, but taking a shared taxi, like the songthaews in Chiang Mai, or a regular taxi in Bangkok is more cost efficient.
  • Islands – I’m still always surprised by how much higher the cost of everything is down south.  The last time I went to an island I was sure, after being here for a while, that I had figured out of a few tricks to save money.  Nope.  For most things there was no choice to do it cheaper.
Longtail Boat on Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Longtail Boat on Koh Phi Phi

In the end the cheap deals and options far outweigh that handful of things costing a bit extra, but it’s good to realize what has the potential of drying up your finances.  What have you found makes your money disappear when traveling through Thailand?

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>> How Much Does It Cost to Live in Thailand? >>

05Apr

So doing my taxes, I realized how much money I actually made teaching in Thailand for 2012…it’s laughable.  Ready?

Laughing Thai figurines

laughable…

$6,000

After I had a minor freak out (I made more money when I was a teenager!) I took a step back to look at how I could still be so comfortable after making such a low amount.

First of all, a couple notes about salaries for teaching in Thailand and why I made so little.

Thai School Office

My office at a Thai high school

You don’t get much.  Obviously.  Out of the Asian countries, foreign teachers’ salaries in Thailand are some of the lowest.  Within Thailand, Chiang Mai schools tend to pay the least (Why? There are a ton of schools and jobs here, but there are also a ton of Westerners looking to fill those positions and overall the cost of living here is very low), so just starting out, I wasn’t in the best place to make the big bucks.  On top of all that, when I was teaching full time, I was at a school that paid the least amount possible…so…yeah.

I would say the average monthly salary for teaching full time in the north is between 27,000 – 30,000 baht or about $900-1,000.  (30 baht roughly equals $1.oo.)  I know several people in positions that are making 35,000 – 40,000 baht which is very good and more than you need to live here.

I was making 23,000 baht a month working about 45 hours a week at a high school and then trying to supplement that by teaching lessons at a language school in the evenings and on the weekends.  The Thai school calendar is completely different from the Western calendar and ‘summer’ break is from March-May, so I only had this salary for two months of 2012.  During that break I visited home and then came back to Thailand looking to piece together work instead working in one place full time.  Essentially I didn’t really teach and make any money for almost two months.

After that I picked up regular lessons at the language school, as well as a primary school and daycare, while also having a couple private students on the side.  Doing this I was able to make close to 30,000 a month – and without being stuck in the same place for 40+ hours a week!  I kept this up through the beginning of October then gave up teaching.

In the end, that $6,000 came from about nine months of working.  Slightly better than thinking it was over an entire year, but still…

So, how can I survive?  How much does it cost to live in Thailand?

First of all I can be a little stingy  frugal at times – I actually even managed to save about $2,000 from September 2011 – October 2012 while not even making $1,000 a month.  But the main reason is that living in Thailand is very, very cheap.  (For comparison, while I was on the low end of the foreign teacher’s salary with 23,000 baht, many of the Thai teachers at my school were supposedly making around 8,000 a month.  That’s a whole other issue, but the point is, I was doing just fine.)

Thai Baht

Ballin’

Below is a basic breakdown of my monthly living expenses.

  • Rent: 4,000 baht (living room, bedroom, bathroom and kitchen with cable and wi-fi included)
  • Utilities: 200 baht (water and electricity)
  • Phone: 300 baht (I have a basic, no frills cell phone that I mainly use as an alarm and calculator.  I bought the phone and SIM card when I first came then just buy minutes every few weeks.)
  • Gas: 300 – 500 baht (it costs about $3.50 to completely fill the tank of my Honda Wave motorbike)
  • Laundry: 300 baht (I get my laundry done for me about every week and a half, 30B/kg for wash, dry, fold and iron)
  • Food: about 4,000 baht
  • Snacks: about 500 baht (I don’t really need that banana-filled, fried rotee with sweetened condensed milk…but it does make my stay here sweeter)
  • Drinks: about 1,500 (the coffee and alcohol add up, especially compared to the full meals you can get on the street for about $1)
  • Toiletries: 200 baht (toilet paper, shampoo, etc.)
  • Entertainment/shopping: 1,000 baht (I’m not a big shopper, massages are about $5-7, and most of my other entertainment was usually free – or close to it – plus the cost of drinks or something, i.e. open mic nights, going for a Sundy drive, etc.)
  • Miscellaneous: let’s say 2,000 – 2,500 baht to be on the safe side (Obviously this varies, but I think this would be generous estimate.  Medicine is fairly cheap and accessible, it costs me $3 to fix a flat tire – which I get every couple of months – and even going to the dentist for a cleaning is only around $60)

TOTAL: 15,000 baht or $500.

Say that was my average cost of living for the entire year and the total would come to $6,000 – what I actually made.

Of course, I did spend a little more than this.  The outline above doesn’t include visa fees, trips (including a plane tickets halfway around the world), rental deposits, letting loose a little when visitors were in town or motorbike payments.  BUT living here for 15,000 baht per month is completely doable, and isn’t even too difficult.  While I was (am) very careful and aware about my money, I wasn’t depriving myself by any means.

I tended to cook or eat street food, limiting little ‘splurges’ at a restaurant or good coffee shop to once or twice a week and I didn’t go shopping buying new clothes or much for my living space.

h Street Coffee and Alcohol

These two drinks at a trendy cafe are the equivalent of about five street food dishes

I lived completely comfortably, both by Thai and Western standards – I got my laundry done for me!  I could get a house cleaner!  Crazy.

So there you have it – the basic breakdown of what it could cost to live in Thailand.  Of course, what it actually costs is up to you, your tastes and spending habits.  Over the next couple of weeks I’ll be sharing more posts on how to save and spend money in the Land of Smiles.  To make sure you don’t miss them, please subscribe to my RSS feed here.

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>> The Day to Day >>

27Mar

When you get wrapped up in schedules, work and errands it’s easy to forget that you should be paying attention, and appreciating, the day to day activities, habits or routines.  I do really well keeping a journal or notes of my travels – I feel like I see and do so many new things each day and want to somehow document them to remember and look back upon.  While I’m traveling the feeling that I’m fully experiencing life is at it’s highest, yet when settled in one spot for longer than a couple weeks, I tend to stop taking note of how I’m spending my time.  I’m doing similar things day in and day out and there’s less novelty, less urgency, to write it down or feel like it’s a once in lifetime experience.

Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia

Visiting Ta Prohm temple in Angkor, Cambodia

But it is.

Even if you’re doing the same thing for the hundredth time, there’s something unique and special about that moment.  And, looking back, wouldn’t you rather remember the details about what you spent most of your time doing rather than just the ‘big’ events?

I’ve always enjoyed history – learning how things were in the past, what places looked like and how people lived.  Looking at old photos, I think it’s more interesting to see the spontaneous, unintentional shots with random details you normally wouldn’t think of to document in many posed pictures.  The old car in the background, the 60s-style wallpaper, the previous forms of tools, appliances and electronics.  This is what people used and looked at and interacted with everyday.

Samlors in Chiang Mai

Samlors in Chiang Mai

This was their life.  Not just a high school dance portrait or getting dressed up on Easter Sunday.

Of course, when you travel you want to see the big sites, the attractions and activities that are known around the world.  And those are important.  It’s incredible to see something in real life that you’ve always only heard about or seen pictures of.  The Eiffel Tower, a red double-decker bus, an exotic jungle temple.  Even if the reality doesn’t meet your expectations, there’s still a moment when you think, “This is it“- and that’s special.

Parliament in London

Parliament and Big Ben in London

But I’m even more interested in the things you don’t initially think out or set out to go find.

I don’t mind long bus or train rides traveling, even during the day, because I can just watch the world around me and pick up clues as to how the people there live their lives.  Especially in Southeast Asia, where so much of life is lived outdoors or less private (many shops also double as people’s homes, everyone eats outdoors year round because of the warm weather), you can see a lot just riding through.  You notice families sitting on the floor watching television and eating dinner, walking their motorbikes inside the front door for the night, sitting in groups outside with a bottle of whiskey and short glasses of ice and soda.

Thai Street Food

Getting ready for dinner in Thailand

When you live in a place different from home you pick up on so many details and ways of doing things that are different from where you came from.  I would never think twice about what the bus tickets look like in Seattle, but here I’ve kept tickets from all my trips.  Even the mundane errands, like going to the dentist or getting your oil changed, are opportunities to learn more and see a different side of where I’m living.  I’m not just going through the motions because everything is still new and different even if just in some minor way.

Loaded Motorbike, Thailand

Running errands = normal…carrying everything back home balance on your motorbike = new

Though I’m more aware of these little daily occurrences while they’re happening, I still don’t do anything to document them.  I already know these are the things I’ll want to remember, and yet the ones that I will probably forget the quickest.  Funny how that works.

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>> Moment in: Croissant Heaven >>

25Mar
Croissants in Vientiane, Laos

Vientiane, Laos

Thailand is lacking when it comes to baked goods.  Very seriously lacking.

Best part about visa runs to Laos?  Croissants.

And Beer Lao…

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>> Chiang Mai’s Dirty Little Secret >>

20Mar

I could go on all day about how beautiful Northern Thailand is.  Lakes, mountains, rivers, caves, waterfalls and jungles are everywhere just asking to be explored and the weather is usually some of the best in the country – cooler, yet still clear and sunny.

Wat Suon Dok, Chiang Mai, Thailand

In Chiang Mai on a clear day looking toward Doi Suthep

That is, until February and March.

While November, December and January are just about as perfect as you could get when it comes to comfortable temperatures, no rain and abundant sunshine, February and March bring the start of hotter temperatures and bad air.

Bad Air in Chiang Mai

Looking toward that same mountain in the first photo…yep, don’t see it…

During this time there’s widespread burning of fields and forests for farming and, as I’ve been told, cultivating a special type mushroom.  There’s very little rain and that, combined with the heat and the fact that the city of Chiang Mai is in a valley, makes it so the smoky and polluted air stays trapped.

The pattern happens every year, though some are worse than others.  2012 was particularly bad, while this year it’s been more of an annoyance, but still not good.  When I asked my Thai teacher about it she said the burning, smoke and haze continues, “…until my King makes the fake rain.”  It was probably one of the best, and most confusing, things I’ve heard living here.  But that’s what happens.  This is where I live.

More Bad Air in Chiang Mai

The air usually seems worst in the morning (when the photo above was taken) and clears up a little throughout the day.  Many people I know have been complaining of congestion, dehydration, lack of energy and lethargy.  They don’t feel sick, like they have a cold, but something just isn’t quite right.  Unfortunately, there’s not much you can do about it except wait it out.  (Though I know of several long term expats and retirees who regularly plan to leave during the ‘smoky season’, coming back in April or May.)

Chiang Mai Air Pollution

I wonder what is considered ‘Unhealthy’ because I think not not being able to see means things are pretty bad… Source

I’m a big proponent of traveling to places in the off season.  I wouldn’t hesitate telling someone to visit Thailand during the rainy season, but I don’t recommend coming to the north during February and March if you don’t have to.  The weather definitely puts a damper on things and doesn’t show off the region in the best light.  In fact, it’s a really smoky, hazy light.

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>> The Student Market, Chiang Mai >>

15Mar
Last month I wrote about the Saturday Walking Street in Chiang Mai and am currently working on a round up of all the Chiang Mai markets – there’s a lot!  There are different types of markets in different parts of town opening up and shutting down throughout the day and night.  A few are well known to visitors, but many you probably wouldn’t hear about if you were just visiting for a little bit, like one of the student markets near Chiang Mai University.
Chiang Mai Student Market Clothing
กาดหน้ามอ is also known as the ‘front gate market’ or, by expats, ‘the student market’.  Located on Huay Gaew road across from the front gate (get it, get it??) of the university, the market is open nightly catering to the the 35,000+ students staying in the area.  Every time I’ve gone, I’ve been one of maybe five foreigners perusing the aisles.
Here you can get cheap new and used clothing (if you can fit into the Thai sizes), shoes, watches and sunglasses, and stock up on your colored, big eye contact lenses.
Take your pick

Take your pick

There’s also a large food area with Thai dishes, snacks and sweets, as well as several Japanese and moo ka ta (Thai barbeque) places.
Chiang Mai Student Market food
The market opens around 6:00, but probably the best time to come for a bite and to check out the latest Thai fashions (always entertaining – see below) is between 7:00 – 9:30 p.m.  After that things start shutting down and before you know it, it will be gone as most of the clothing stalls are set up and taken down each day.
Chiang Mai Student Market Clothing Shop

This is where I come for my Dorothy shorts and belly shirt to go with my Mickey Mouse ears baseball cap…naturally

Chiang Mai Student Market Gold Shorts

I actually am kind of wondering if I could rock these…

What different types of markets do you like to visit on your travels?  Tell me in the comments…

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>> Dating in a Foreign Language >>

28Feb

…is difficult.  I guess that should come as no surprise – trying to order food in a foreign language is difficult enough,  so obviously dating should be a bit tricky.  Communicating in any sort of relationship is always complicated at times, even when you do speak the same language.  Add to that a different culture, upbringing and worldview and you’re bound to run into some issues.

But, naturally, that’s not what’s on your mind when you first start out.  You don’t meet the handsome stranger and think, “Hmm, we only have a limited shared vocabulary to verbally communicate to each other with…this could cause some problems.”

No, no, no – you think, “Hmm, I’m in an exotic country and this handsome stranger is pretty dang intriguing…and their English is really good…but I’m sure this isn’t going to go anywhere, that’s just silly, and…shit, they just kissed me.”

And then you’re screwed.

Caution sign in Pai, Thailand

Exactly.

Things are good – it’s always exciting and interesting, and somewhat unbelievable, when you begin to get to know someone.  To go out and each time learn a little bit more about them, the window into their lives opening a little bit more.

Then you realize, “Wow, eight months of Thai lessons and I can just get people to understand my order…most of the time.  How am I supposed to explain when I’m upset with something?  Or, now that we’ve gotten the usual ‘getting to know you’ questions out of the way, how do I explain my political stance or religious beliefs?”.  How do you differentiate between stressed and feeling serious when there’s only one word for the two in their language?  How do you explain a part of your culture or beliefs accurately when the language is so different and the custom so foreign?

It’s difficult.

Sometimes you don’t know if it’s the language or the culture differences getting in the way.  You get into arguments over little things, like how to sweep the floor because you assumed there weren’t rules to sweep the floor but actually it’s customary to sweep out a certain door at a certain time of day and when that’s being explained to you you don’t quite understand, because those ideas never ever crossed your mind and then you get confused and a little defensive.  And then it turns into a misunderstanding because the tone of voice being used comes across as not very kind, but it’s not actually meaning to be harsh there just is a different understanding of the subtleties of the language being used, so things are perceived one way when they’re actually meant in another.

Funny English Sign

I hear what you’re saying…but I have no clue what you’re talking about…

And then you can do one of two things: you can get angry and give up, or you can take a moment to cool down and try again.

What you decide makes all the difference. 

Yes, it’s frustrating to not be understood or for what you say to be misconstrued.  But if you both realize that this is going to happen, that you have to be patient and try not to lose your temper or jump to conclusions, and are willing to try again, to try to communicate in a different way or word what you said a little differently to be better understood, then it can work.  (And speak clearly! Between accents and mispronunciations and gaps in vocabulary, speaking quickly or mumbling is not going to help you.)  You both need to give in.  You both need to make an effort to figure out what works for the two of you.  You both need to cut each other some slack for saying something that doesn’t come across or translate well.  Cause it’s going to happen.

But after a while, just like if you were dating someone who spoke the same language, you’ll start to learn how to communicate better.  When to speak up and when to hold your tongue, when to push an issue and when to acknowledge you said some things that could have been misinterpreted.  You learn that when you hear them say they’re going to ‘sex bar’ they really mean the place called ‘Sax Bar’ down the street to play pool.

Bugs and Roses

Bugs and roses

When you’re able to make it past those initial hurdles and misunderstandings it gets easier.  And, after all, there’s no better way to improve your language skills and get an insider’s perspective of where you’re staying.

Have you been in a relationship with someone who spoke a different language?  How did it work out?

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