Entries Tagged as 'art&culture'

>> Chiang Mai Market Guide – Part I >>

02May

While I’m not a big shopper, I do enjoy meandering through the market streets taking in all the lights and colors and doing a bit of people-watching.  It never fails to amaze me how much stuff is available and how  everything is completely set up and taken down whenever the markets runs, whether it’s weekly or even daily.

Ansuarn Market, Chiang Mai

One of the many night markets in Chiang Mai

I’ve shown you glimpses of the student market and the Saturday Walking Street in Chiang Mai before, but that was barely skimming the surface on the regular, outdoor markets the city has to offer.  So, I’ve (attempted to) put together a series of posts listing out the different markets I take people to visiting Chiang Mai.  This first post – of a 3-part series – includes the more well-known shopping spots of the Chiang Mai markets, but check back in the next couple weeks for Parts II and III for more local finds you probably wouldn’t hear about if you were just in town for a few days.

Sunday Walking Street

Sunday Walking Street, Chiang Mai

Probably the best known market, the Sunday Walking Street runs, well, every Sunday.  Though it’s considered a night market, people have been setting up their tables earlier and earlier (beginning as early as 11 in the morning) and by 5:30 most stalls are ready to go.  The market starts at Tha Pae Gate and goes all the way along Ratchadamnoen Road until Wat Phra Singh in the center of the old city (about 1.5 km).  This is the place for souvenirs, t-shirts, artwork, hand made items and just about everything in between.  There are two large food areas set up toward the beginning of the market on temple grounds and small stalls set up the entire way.

While I highly recommend going, be warned that it is crowded.  Very crowded.  Especially in the high season, it’s not uncommon for you to be jammed up next to people inching your way along.  To get from end to end when it’s this busy can easily take an hour+ even if you’re not stopping too much along the way.  I like going before it gets dark out while there’s less people and a kind of calm before the masses hit.  It’s also one of the best places to see the 6 o’clock national anthem and moment of stillness.  Everyone will be moving around but as soon as the first notes come over the loud speaker everyone stands still for the length of the song.

  • When:  Sundays, around 4:30/5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m. (ish)
  • Where: Tha Pae Gate and Ratchadamnoen Road
Saturday Walking Street
Saturday Walking Street, Chiang Mai, Thailand

One of my favs

The Saturday Walking Street is basically like the Sunday Walking Street, but a little smaller and more manageable.  As I’ve already written about here, it’s one of the markets I enjoy the most because of the size and mix of people that go to it each week.  The Sunday night market also has a variety of people, but since it’s so large and well-known, many tour groups (Thai, Chinese and Western) come in for the evening.

  • When:  Saturdays, around 5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
  • Where: Wualai Road (moving southwest away from Chiang Mai Gate (south gate)
Night Bazaar

Night Bazaar, Chiang Mai

Honestly, I really don’t like the Night Bazaar, but if you were looking to do some major shopping or have things on your list you want to buy and aren’t in town over the weekend, it’s a good place to go.  It’s massive and has many different parts to it – there are stalls lining the street (and making the sidewalks very narrow/crowded), as well as several permanent building structures with floors of shops and two market courtyard areas with more shops, tables, bars and restaurants.

This area is entirely geared toward tourists – you won’t see many locals shopping around,  In fact, many of the people working the stalls aren’t even Thai, but Lao or Burmese.  The merchandise is usually marked up a bit from the walking streets and food is heavily overpriced.  For example, usually I can buy the very basic Thai dish kai jio moo sap (Thai omelet with minced pork over rice) for 25 – 30 baht.  At the Night Bazaar, this – just rice and egg! – is going for around 60 baht with stir-fried mixed vegetables (another super simple dish) going for 80 – 90 baht.  There are also several Western-food sit down restaurants as well as fast-food places like McDonald’s, Burger King and Subway.

  • When:  Nightly, Sunday nights are usually quieter because of the Walking Street
  • Where: Chang Khlang Road on the east side of town

Be sure to check back soon for the next installment of this Chiang Market series.

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>> Moment on: A Hot Tile Roof >>

29Apr

Royal Palace Roof, Bangkok

I’ve posted before about how I love the designs, patterns and intricate details of the Grand Palace in Bangkok.  You never know where to look because there are so many buildings, colors, paintings and decorations completely surrounding you.  What makes everything more incredible is that you can tell many things were painstakingly done by hand – and still are – like tiling a roof in the middle of a hot day.

Royal Palace Roof, Bangkok

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>> What You Don’t Know About Thailand >>

18Apr

Everyone knows the Land of Smiles is filled with sunshine, lady boys, cheap eats and tuk tuks…but there are several things, especially when it comes to what is actually legal or illegal, that may surprise you.  Here’s what you don’t know about Thailand:

The City of Angels

Bangkok is not called Bangkok, in Thai it’s known as Krung Thep (sounds like kroong t-aep, like a mix between a hard /a/ sound in tape and the /e/ sound in pet).  But that’s just the abbreviated version, the city’s full name is กรุงเทพมหานคร อมรรัตนโกสินทร์ มหินทรายุธยามหาดิลก ภพนพรัตน์ ราชธานีบุรีรมย์ อุดมราชนิเวศน์ มหาสถาน อมรพิมาน อวตารสถิต สักกะทัตติยะ วิษณุกรรมประสิทธิ์ or Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.  Here’s a video to help you practice (they start singing the name about one minute in).

Prostitution

Is illegal.  Yes, Thailand is known for its after-hours entertainment but, technically, it’s still illegal.

Helmets

To wear or not to wear?  Legally, you must wear a helmet at all times.  That said, it depends on where you are and the time of day as to whether or not you’ll get in trouble for it.  Regardless of the fact that you should always wear a good helmet for safety reasons, it doesn’t seem like many people do here.  You’ll notice many Thais still don’t wear their helmets, especially in the evening or at night time when the police are done with their checks for the day.

Thai National Anthem

Observing the 6 p.m. national anthem at Chiang Mai’s Sunday Walking Street

The Royal Anthem

Along with state occasions, Phleng Sansoen Phra Barami, the royal anthem of Thailand, is played before movies start at the cinema, as well as before live music or theater performances.  When the song is played everyone stands respectfully.

Toothpicks and nose pickers

While most people are careful to cover their mouth with their hand while using a toothpick after eating, they’re just as likely to go digging for gold in public with no sense of embarrassment or impoliteness.

Booze Ban

Some people think the party never stops – and if you know where to look, it doesn’t – but technically it is illegal to sell alcohol between midnight – 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. – 5:00 p.m.  The rule mainly affects larger chains, like 7-11, and you can usually find smaller, family-owned shops that will continue selling.  There are also several Buddhist holidays and election days where the selling of alcohol is strictly prohibited.

Cats love Leo Beer

Better stock up on beer when you can…

Feet

I’m sure you’ve heard feet are considered the dirtiest part of the body and you should never point them toward people or, especially, temples, monks and the Buddha.  But the anti-foot fetish goes much further than that.  Stepping on or over certain things, like money, purses and pillows, will make some people uncomfortable as well as using your feet to open or close a door or drawer.  Even with the best of intentions or awareness, it’s easy to slip up and move or use your feet in a way that is inappropriate or disrespectful.  (For more social and cultural practices you need to be aware of check out 10 Things Not to Do in Thailand.)

Sex changes

Thailand is the place to go for sex change operations (along with many other cosmetic  or augmentation procedures).  The prices are cheaper than in the West and the procedures more common.  Medical tourism in general is very high in Thailand with people coming over for everything, from dental work to face lifts, for a fraction of the cost at home.

Little penis, Thailand

Um…

Sex toys

…are illegal to purchase or sell.  Seems like a funny thing to have such strict laws about considering the widespread strip clubs, brothels and sex change operations (and market stalls will still sell them out in the open in certain areas), but it’s true.

Bad words

If you pronounce something wrong in Thai, chances are you said something rude or dirty.  For example, with just a change of tone ‘aunt’ becomes ‘crazy’, ‘drive’ becomes ‘shit’, and ‘pii’, a term of respect used before the name of those older than you becomes,  becomes ‘ghost’ or ‘spirit’.  There are also several words that sounds awfully similar to a slang Thai word for ‘penis’, and once when I was trying to say the flowers in my Thai teacher’s apartment smelled nice, instead of saying ‘good smell’ said ‘balls’, as in testicles.  No wonder I’m afraid to speak Thai.

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>> Moment at: a Muay Thai Fight >>

08Apr
Tha Pae Thai Boxing , Chiang Mai

Tha Pae Boxing Stadium in Chiang Mai

After a year and a half living in Thailand I finally made it to a Muay Thai fight.  It was one of those things that I didn’t really care too much to do, and knew I could go practically any time I wanted (there are several stadiums in Chiang Mai with regular fights each week), so there was never any push to actually buy a ticket.

The verdict?  Mediocre.

I’m glad I went but overall the fights, audience and atmosphere didn’t have the energy or excitement that I was anticipating.  The stadium I went to is a training center, so you’re definitely not seeing the best of the best, but while I didn’t have high expectations, the whole evening was still kind of dull.  Maybe there should have been more beer involved.

Muay Thai Fight, Chiang Mai

In Chiang Mai there are fights almost every night of the week with tickets ranging from about 400B – 1000B ($12 – $33).  You can either buy tickets at the stadiums beforehand or at the time of the event, and many guesthouses, tour agencies and rental shops can also get you hooked up.

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>> Moment of: a Random Elephant Sighting >>

13Mar
Elephant at Wat Phra Singh

Elephant at Wat Phra Singh in Chiang Mai

One of the things I love about living in Thailand is its never-ending surprises.  Like waking up to go to a temple in the morning and coming across an elephant…naturally.

Want to see more of these weekly ‘Moments’? Check out past posts here or ‘Like’ the Paper Planes Facebook Page for more photos and random happenings here.

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>> Moment of: True Love >>

12Feb
rt Hearts in Penang, Malysia

Hearts in Penang

See more street art from Penang, Malaysia here and here.

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>> Moment of: Getting Ready for the New Year >>

31Dec

young dancers in Chiang Mai

Since Christmas there have been nightly performances and markets set up in the middle Chiang Mai counting down to the New Year.  The costumes are nothing short of fabulous.  Here’s to a Happy 2013  สวัสดีปีใหม่

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>> The World of Thai Amulets >>

21Dec

One of my favorite discoveries in Bangkok is a large amulet market found close to the Grand Palace (about a 10-minute walk) on Prachan Road.  It’s unlike anything I’ve seen before and increased my interest to know more about the fascination with Buddhist amulets in Thailand.  Why do so many people wear them?  What do they mean?  Why are they believed to have powers?  How can you tell if one’s ‘real’ or not?

Thai Amulets in Bangkok

Amulets in Bangkok

 Thai Buddhist amulets come in all shapes and sizes.  You’ll see rich men with large pieces in gold and diamond cases, old men with more then ten dangling from a chain, women with small, tasteful gold Buddhas on a thin Thai gold (sooo yellow!) necklace and toddlers with a tiny charm.  People seek the amulets out for their blessings, security and magical powers.  Generally speaking, they are meant to protect you – protect you from harm, accidents, danger, bad business, bad people, bad luck (the belief in luck plays a very important role in day to day Thai life, but that’s for a different post).  Some are thought to have greater protection for certain things or provide good luck in certain areas of your life.

What makes them so special?  They’re made by monks, often who are well-known for their own magical or meditative powers, who put special symbols and blessings in the amulet.   Amulets that have ‘proven themselves’ by protecting the wearer and got people talking become well known and sought after.  There are many stories of guns not being able to work around special amulets or people wearing a certain amulet and coming away from an accident unscathed.

Thai Amulets

The amulets can be bought all over.  Just walking down the street you’ll see someone with a table set up and men squinting through their magnifying glasses, examining the amulets and seeing if they’re real.  There are also several eBay-type sites for people to bid, buy and sell.  The older, more well-known and more rare they are the pricier they are, with some amulets selling for tens of thousands of dollars.  People will then have their amulets encased in hard plastic to protect them and then have decorative handmade cases cases created to show off their piece.

Thai Amulet with Silver

While I definitely understand more now, thanks to some Thai friends, than I ever would have on my own, I’m still amazed at the sheer quantity of different amulets, knowledge it takes to recognize pieces from specific monks and know the story behind them or if they’re real, and the industry that’s been created around these charms.

What objects have you been intrigued by in other countries?  Was there something everyone seemed to own?

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>> Lights and Lanterns – Thailand’s Loi Krathong/Yi Peng Festival >>

27Nov

It always seems like there’s some cool celebration, festival or holiday going on…somewhere else.  I’ve never been to Oktoberfest, Holi, the running of the bulls or Glastonbury BUT for once I’m in the right place at the right time.

Yi Peng

Thailand’s Loi Krathong festival is known as ‘Yi Peng’ in the north

Every year on the full moon of the 12th lunar month, Thailand celebrates ‘Loi Krathong’ (ลอยกระทง), or Yi Peng (ยี่เป็ง) as it’s known in the north.  To those outside of Thailand it’s best known as ‘That Lantern festival’ – and for good reason – there are a lot of lanterns.

Lighting the Lantern - Yi Peng

Lighting our floating lantern (khom loi)

Though festivities happen throughout the country, Chiang Mai is by far the best place to experience this beautiful holiday of lights, floats, fireworks and lanterns.  (To learn more about the holiday and how it’s celebrated check out my guide to Loi Krathong on Wanderlust and Lipstick.)  While the actual holiday falls on the full moon, there is a always a huge lantern release several days before, about 30 minutes outside of Chiang Mai in the town on Mae Jo.  This year Loi Krathong will be celebrated on November 28th and 29th, but the stunning release was this past Saturday.

Thousands of people gather at a Buddhist temple for a special meditation ceremony then the release of thousands of floating lanterns into the night sky.  It’s incredible how something so simple as a lit up bag slowing rising in the sky can be so mesmerizing.  There really are no words for the sensational sight…so I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Getting ready to launch - Yi Peng

Yi Peng

For hours of waiting and protecting our spot on the temple grounds (and then getting stranded in a sudden lightning storm with no power and having our driver ditch us)…this was our reward:

Floating Lanterns - Yi Peng

This is it…

Worth it.

Can’t get enough of the photos?  Go to the Paper Planes Facebook Page for more!

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>> Old vs. New >>

23Nov

I’ve always appreciated the old and natural over the new and plastic.  I like old buildings, old cars, old clothes.  I majored in history and have often felt like I should be living in a different decade.  I prefer making things with my hands than working online.  I don’t have a smartphone.

When I first moved to Thailand several things stood out to me as being ‘old fashioned’ or done in a more natural way than at home.  More clothes are made or fitted by hand.  Tailor shops and single seamstresses working out of their front room are everywhere to make custom clothing and resize school uniforms.  In a time when less people are even wearing watches, here you can get your broken timepiece fixed by a man with a little stand on the side of the street.  Along with getting your shoes resoled.

Samlors in Chiang Mai

Samlors waiting outside a market

Some more examples – above are old-style bicycle taxis known as samlors.  Naturally, before the onslaught of cars and motorbikes, they used to be used much more frequently, and today are mainly reduced to a tourist attraction of sorts.  The only people that seem to use them seriously are old Thai ladies going to and from the fresh markets.

Old letterpress

When I was taking my TEFL course I walked past this print shop everyday where they have not one, but TWO classic Heidelberg letterpresses that they use for printing…fliers.  Fliers!  And invitations, but still.  Here you see one of the press and racks of type that the man who owns the shop and his son have to set by hand for each design.

Traditional Thai Wooden House

Traditional Thai houses were made of teak and raised on stilts to avoid flooding damage and, well, tigers. Though there are still several of these types of houses around, many are worn down and no new ones are being built.  You can see in the image below an older house by newer buildings and hotels.

Sweeta Wrapped in Banana Leaves

Southeast Asia is the world’s winner for using the most plastic bags possible.  It’s not just that there’s no awareness about trying to use reusable bags instead of plastic when going to the market or grocery store; it’s like there’s an unspoken competition to use as many bags for your purchases as physically possible.  I’ve literally bought three small things before and had them placed into three separate bags.  I don’t get it.  My favorite is when I see someone buy a bottle of tea or can of soda, have it put in a bag to carry out, then open it up and start drinking still hold on to the bag.

Anyway, on the other end of the spectrum, gigantic banana leaves are abundant and often used to wrap, package and cook in.  Above are Thai sweets made from coconut milk that are cooked and then sold in their banana leaf wrappers – so simple, green and sustainable.  Sometimes you can get fried noodle dishes off the street served on a banana leaf instead of in a styrofoam box.  Perfect.

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