Entries Tagged as 'live & learn'

>> I’m going home…and I’m scared >>

17May

I’m going home next week for the first time in more than a year and the entire thing kind of scares me.

I want to go home.  It’s time.  I need it.  I want to see my family and friends and eat cheese and Mexican food and bake and sleep in my bed and see Mt. Rainier and go out to happy hour with friends and not sweat constantly or be eaten alive by mosquitoes.  I need and want all of that.  But it’s not as simple as just being able  to look forward to catching up with people and eating the foods I’ve missed.

The thing is, I don’t know if I’m coming back to Thailand, or assuming I do, when that would be.  Which is problematic considering a) I love it and b) I have someone.  Oops.

When I first made the move to Southeast Asia, I bought a one-way ticket without a second thought.  This time, buying another one-way ticket home, was difficult.  While originally I was also full of doubt, questions and uneasiness, there was also a lot of excitement, anticipation and readiness to go.  I was ready for something different, for a new adventure and to be on my own.  Now, I have different doubts and questions, along with a really unwelcome feeling of indecisiveness and being lost.

Buddha in Autthaya, Thailand

In the beginning I thought traveling and living abroad would help point me in the right direction of where I want to be and what I want to be doing with my life.  Ultimately, I think it will…but at the moment I feel more directionless than I did to begin with.  That wasn’t supposed to happen…

I’ll be leaving Thailand exactly two years after I originally arrived.  During that time I’ve become TEFL-certified and taught English in a variety of Thai schools, backpacked through India, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, lived on my own, learned to ride a motorbike, (tried to) learn a new language, got familiar with visa runs and my passport number, fought constantly with mosquitoes and cockroaches, made several friends and saw many of them come and go, showed family and friends from home my new, adopted home.  I’ve gotten used to squat toilets, cold showers, eating rice for breakfast, never wearing a seat belt, riding a motorbike in the rain, nothing being on time and drinking beer with ice.  While those will be easy to get used to not having or doing, there are other things that I think have changed me more and will take more time to adjust to.

Food Stalls in Chiang Mai

Like the price of food…

My concept and perception of money is completely screwed up.  Spending a couple dollars on a full meal is normal and a glass of wine is a splurge.  I can get my motorbike serviced and washed for less than half of what a tank of gas will cost at home.  My way of driving has completely changed – from driving on the left-side of the road, swerving in between traffic and not thinking twice about driving up the side of the road the wrong way – what will I feel like behind the wheel of a car in America?

I’m also (more) used to a completely different set of customs, social rules and behaviors.  I’ve been surrounded by Buddhism instead of Christianity, holding your tongue instead of spouting off, and being patient no matter what the situation.

What’s going to happen when I get home?  And what am I going to do next?

 

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>> 5 Tips for Expat Living >>

14May

After two years of living abroad, there are a few things that have come up and again that make life and settling down in a foreign place a little easier.

5 Tips for Expat Living

Be patient

Things will go wrong, you won’t understand what’s happening around you and will get frustrated, but if you’re patient everything ends up working itself out.

Ask for help

Chances are there are plenty of expats who have been in your position before with the same questions, problems or frustrations.  There are a ton of Facebook Groups made up of expats living in Chiang Mai where people post everything from questions and concerns, to new apartments and special event information.  If you ask for help, you’ll probably get it and save yourself some headache for trying to figure things out on your own.

Learn the language

I’m still shocked about the number of people who live here who can barely even order food.  It’s embarrassing.  Even if you don’t have to use the native language to get by, still try.  You’re choosing to live in the country, and a country’s language and culture are completely intertwined.  Knowing how to speak and read the language around will open up your world and understanding of the place.

Limit your tie with ‘home’

It’s important to keep in touch with people and happenings back at home, but if you spend too much time trying to stay connected you’ll miss out on your current life.

Make local connections

It sounds obvious, but isn’t always simple to do.  However, the sooner you’re able to make connections and build relationships with those in your new community the better.  Having someone to turn to who knows the area better than you is invaluable.

These tips are from an interview I did for Expats Blog, read more here.

 

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>> Cooking (and Eating) at Lemongrass Cookery School >>

12Apr

Whenever someone comes to visit Chiang Mai I suggest they take a Thai cooking class.  There are courses throughout the country, but it seems like an especially popular thing to do up here in the north – in fact there are continually new classes and ‘schools’ popping up to help share the secrets of Thai ingredients and cuisine with foreigners.

Cooking at Lemongrass Thai Cookery School, Chiang Mai

I had done four classes before with various friends and family members, but still jumped on the chance to try another one at one of the newly opened programs, Lemongrass Cookery School.  I love cooking and have appreciated both reviewing what I have learned in previous classes as well as always learning something new, whether it’s about a certain ingredient, the way chiles grow, making a new dish or how to measure different sauces, in each class I’ve taken.

Coffee break

Coffee break

When people ask for recommendations on which course to choose, I usually say they can’t really go wrong as all the courses offered are pretty similar.  You can either cook for a half day or full day, you normally tour a local market discussing ingredients and buying what you will need later, you choose between three to six dishes to cook usually consisting of an appetizer, soup, curry, stir fry, noodle and dessert dish.  The options of what to cook don’t vary much from place to place (phad thai, stir fried chicken with cashew nuts, green curry, spring rolls…), the prices for a full day are between 900-1,200 baht (about $30-40), and the people running the courses are always friendly, encouraging and knowledgeable.

That said, each place still has their own little charm and in Lemongrass Cookery School’s case, that charm comes in the form of Jiab, the bubbly teacher, and the feeling that you’re not just doing a class, but being welcomed into someone’s life since the course takes place in the absolutely gorgeous outdoor kitchen of Jiab and her husband’s actual home.

Lemongrass Thai Cookery School  Kitchen, Chiang Mai

I wanted to stay in the coffee cabana above, until I saw THIS was where we would be cooking and eating…

While some of the other classes I’ve taken were running three different groups of 9-12 students at the same time, this class felt much more personal, relaxed and enjoyable, like you were collectively helping put on a dinner party for friends.  There was more personalized attention and interest taken in each of the participants and, not surprisingly, the food did not disappoint.

Lemongrass THai Cookery School Garden, Chiang Mai

Picking fresh herbs and vegetables from the garden

Lemongrass Thai Cooker School Ingredients, Chiang Mai

We collected herbs and vegetables from their own garden, learning how to recognize certain plants and how to pick them when they’re ripe, then we each chose any six dishes we wanted out of twelve options and got busy chopping.

Lemongrass Thai Cooker School Phad Thai Ingredients

Getting ready to make phad thai

Lemongrass Thai Cooker School Stove, Chiang Mai

One of the incredible things about Thai food is, once you’ve got the right amounts of all ingredients needed, how quickly it comes together and is done.  Most things took less than five minutes to cook, though the chopping and measuring of each ingredient, sauce and flavoring took much more.  After each round of dishes was ready, we all sat done to test what we had made.

No matter which cooking school you go to, go hungry!  Do not eat before you go and pace yourself, because you don’t just make little portions to taste or share, you get the whole plate.  Then another one…and another one…

Lemongrass Thai Cooker School Table, Chiang Mai

Lovely spot to enjoy our cooking efforts

At the end of the day I was lazily content, full and tired from all the food and sun – it was the kind of feeling you get after a big holiday meal where all you can do is sit back and relax…then Jiab brought us all mango and sticky rice that she had just whipped up, as if we hadn’t eaten enough already.

Lemongrass Thai Cooker School Mango with Sticky Rice, Chiang Mai

A sweet ending to the day: mango with sticky rice

Details: Lemongrass Cookery School offers day-long courses from 8:30 a.m. – about 3:00 p.m.  The class costs 1,000 baht which includes all ingredients, transportation from your accommodation, recipe book, certificate of completion and complimentary coffee and tea.  For more information check out their website, Facebook Page or reviews on Trip Advisor.  To make a booking contact lemongrasscookingschool@gmail.com.

Note: I was a guest of Lemongrass Cookery School, who kindly sponsored my class, however all opinions are my own and now one of my life goals is to have an outdoor cooking/cabana/party area just like theirs.

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>> People travel to far away places… >>

29Mar

“People travel to faraway places

to watch, in fascination,

the kind of people they ignore at home.”

Thai Girls, Chiang Mai

– Dagobert D. Runes

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>> The Day to Day >>

27Mar

When you get wrapped up in schedules, work and errands it’s easy to forget that you should be paying attention, and appreciating, the day to day activities, habits or routines.  I do really well keeping a journal or notes of my travels – I feel like I see and do so many new things each day and want to somehow document them to remember and look back upon.  While I’m traveling the feeling that I’m fully experiencing life is at it’s highest, yet when settled in one spot for longer than a couple weeks, I tend to stop taking note of how I’m spending my time.  I’m doing similar things day in and day out and there’s less novelty, less urgency, to write it down or feel like it’s a once in lifetime experience.

Ta Prohm, Angkor, Cambodia

Visiting Ta Prohm temple in Angkor, Cambodia

But it is.

Even if you’re doing the same thing for the hundredth time, there’s something unique and special about that moment.  And, looking back, wouldn’t you rather remember the details about what you spent most of your time doing rather than just the ‘big’ events?

I’ve always enjoyed history – learning how things were in the past, what places looked like and how people lived.  Looking at old photos, I think it’s more interesting to see the spontaneous, unintentional shots with random details you normally wouldn’t think of to document in many posed pictures.  The old car in the background, the 60s-style wallpaper, the previous forms of tools, appliances and electronics.  This is what people used and looked at and interacted with everyday.

Samlors in Chiang Mai

Samlors in Chiang Mai

This was their life.  Not just a high school dance portrait or getting dressed up on Easter Sunday.

Of course, when you travel you want to see the big sites, the attractions and activities that are known around the world.  And those are important.  It’s incredible to see something in real life that you’ve always only heard about or seen pictures of.  The Eiffel Tower, a red double-decker bus, an exotic jungle temple.  Even if the reality doesn’t meet your expectations, there’s still a moment when you think, “This is it“- and that’s special.

Parliament in London

Parliament and Big Ben in London

But I’m even more interested in the things you don’t initially think out or set out to go find.

I don’t mind long bus or train rides traveling, even during the day, because I can just watch the world around me and pick up clues as to how the people there live their lives.  Especially in Southeast Asia, where so much of life is lived outdoors or less private (many shops also double as people’s homes, everyone eats outdoors year round because of the warm weather), you can see a lot just riding through.  You notice families sitting on the floor watching television and eating dinner, walking their motorbikes inside the front door for the night, sitting in groups outside with a bottle of whiskey and short glasses of ice and soda.

Thai Street Food

Getting ready for dinner in Thailand

When you live in a place different from home you pick up on so many details and ways of doing things that are different from where you came from.  I would never think twice about what the bus tickets look like in Seattle, but here I’ve kept tickets from all my trips.  Even the mundane errands, like going to the dentist or getting your oil changed, are opportunities to learn more and see a different side of where I’m living.  I’m not just going through the motions because everything is still new and different even if just in some minor way.

Loaded Motorbike, Thailand

Running errands = normal…carrying everything back home balance on your motorbike = new

Though I’m more aware of these little daily occurrences while they’re happening, I still don’t do anything to document them.  I already know these are the things I’ll want to remember, and yet the ones that I will probably forget the quickest.  Funny how that works.

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>> Dating in a Foreign Language >>

28Feb

…is difficult.  I guess that should come as no surprise – trying to order food in a foreign language is difficult enough,  so obviously dating should be a bit tricky.  Communicating in any sort of relationship is always complicated at times, even when you do speak the same language.  Add to that a different culture, upbringing and worldview and you’re bound to run into some issues.

But, naturally, that’s not what’s on your mind when you first start out.  You don’t meet the handsome stranger and think, “Hmm, we only have a limited shared vocabulary to verbally communicate to each other with…this could cause some problems.”

No, no, no – you think, “Hmm, I’m in an exotic country and this handsome stranger is pretty dang intriguing…and their English is really good…but I’m sure this isn’t going to go anywhere, that’s just silly, and…shit, they just kissed me.”

And then you’re screwed.

Caution sign in Pai, Thailand

Exactly.

Things are good – it’s always exciting and interesting, and somewhat unbelievable, when you begin to get to know someone.  To go out and each time learn a little bit more about them, the window into their lives opening a little bit more.

Then you realize, “Wow, eight months of Thai lessons and I can just get people to understand my order…most of the time.  How am I supposed to explain when I’m upset with something?  Or, now that we’ve gotten the usual ‘getting to know you’ questions out of the way, how do I explain my political stance or religious beliefs?”.  How do you differentiate between stressed and feeling serious when there’s only one word for the two in their language?  How do you explain a part of your culture or beliefs accurately when the language is so different and the custom so foreign?

It’s difficult.

Sometimes you don’t know if it’s the language or the culture differences getting in the way.  You get into arguments over little things, like how to sweep the floor because you assumed there weren’t rules to sweep the floor but actually it’s customary to sweep out a certain door at a certain time of day and when that’s being explained to you you don’t quite understand, because those ideas never ever crossed your mind and then you get confused and a little defensive.  And then it turns into a misunderstanding because the tone of voice being used comes across as not very kind, but it’s not actually meaning to be harsh there just is a different understanding of the subtleties of the language being used, so things are perceived one way when they’re actually meant in another.

Funny English Sign

I hear what you’re saying…but I have no clue what you’re talking about…

And then you can do one of two things: you can get angry and give up, or you can take a moment to cool down and try again.

What you decide makes all the difference. 

Yes, it’s frustrating to not be understood or for what you say to be misconstrued.  But if you both realize that this is going to happen, that you have to be patient and try not to lose your temper or jump to conclusions, and are willing to try again, to try to communicate in a different way or word what you said a little differently to be better understood, then it can work.  (And speak clearly! Between accents and mispronunciations and gaps in vocabulary, speaking quickly or mumbling is not going to help you.)  You both need to give in.  You both need to make an effort to figure out what works for the two of you.  You both need to cut each other some slack for saying something that doesn’t come across or translate well.  Cause it’s going to happen.

But after a while, just like if you were dating someone who spoke the same language, you’ll start to learn how to communicate better.  When to speak up and when to hold your tongue, when to push an issue and when to acknowledge you said some things that could have been misinterpreted.  You learn that when you hear them say they’re going to ‘sex bar’ they really mean the place called ‘Sax Bar’ down the street to play pool.

Bugs and Roses

Bugs and roses

When you’re able to make it past those initial hurdles and misunderstandings it gets easier.  And, after all, there’s no better way to improve your language skills and get an insider’s perspective of where you’re staying.

Have you been in a relationship with someone who spoke a different language?  How did it work out?

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>> Explore. Dream. Discover. >>

08Feb

Lately I’ve been having people ask me how I made the decision to leave home.  It wasn’t easy, and a lot of thought and planning went into it, but the turning point came when I stumbled upon this quote.  Cliche?  Maybe.  But I scribbled it down in my planner and kept returning to the phrase as it got closer to finalizing my plans and making a move.

Clouds over Bangkok

                              “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do

          than by the ones you did do.

                                               So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor.

                                 Catch the trade winds in your sails.

                                                                           Explore. Dream. Discover.”

                                                                                                                                                       – Mark Twain

Ta Prom in Angkor. Cambodia

It was the first sentence that really stuck with me -now it’s been two years since seeing the quote and I’ve been living and traveling abroad for more than a year and a half.  Now I don’t regret the decisions I have made, but believe that eventually I would have if I had never made the jump.

What has influenced your decision to make a big change or move?

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>> In case you didn’t know, it’s 2013 >>

24Jan

I hate saying it, but I felt kind of apathetic about the New Year.  I didn’t even hear the countdown to midnight though I was in the center of it all in Chiang Mai – one moment I knew it was getting close to 12:00 and the next moment fireworks were going off – but I DIDN’T HEAR THE COUNTDOWN.  Does it count if you don’t hear the countdown?  It didn’t feel like it…

New Year's Eve 2013, Chiang Mai

Here it is, already the end of January, and I still couldn’t tell you a set plan, resolution or direction for 2013.  I don’t need things completely laid out, but it would be nice to have a little more clarity on what I will be spending this year doing.

I didn’t start Paper Planes to be another travel guide posting about the best spots and must-see attractions and can’t-be-missed activities.  I’m not always on the move and often don’t care too much about getting off the beaten path.

There are plenty of other blogs, resources, guide books, review sites, booking sites and travelers out there that have probably already said it all and can do it much better than I.  I’ve traveled a decent a bit, in a range of ways (and comfort), and have a good sense about things, but I’m not attempting to be your go-to guide for all things travel.  Personally, I hate all the hyperbole and don’t have the time to to study things to the point where I can offer a ‘guide’.  I usually don’t plan and research my trips extensively and therefore sometimes the posts on here may be a little haphazard as well – but real.

While I love sharing about traveling and living abroad, I also feel like this whole bloggy thing is an experiment in helping me figure out which direction(s) to go in my life and connect with others who are in similar situations.  I love learning about different people, cultures and lifestyles – but I also appreciate hearing about people just like me who I can identify, empathize and learn with.  It’s always reassuring to know someone else is having the same doubts, questions, problems, triumphs and experiences as you…especially when you’re trying to grow up and get your life in order (which I’m starting to realize is a never ending process).

What do I want to do?  Where do I want to be?  What do I want my life to be like?  What do I have control over and what do I have to accept?  These questions will stick with you throughout your life, but I think they’re especially prevalent in your 20s when, for the first time since kindergarten, you don’t have a set path laid out in front of you.  That takes some time getting used to and figuring out.

I left home because I didn’t want to wake up 2, 5, 10 years down the line and realize I was in the exact same spot I had been in after college.

Street art in Penang, Malaysia

You don’t need to leave home to find yourself, but for me that’s how I wanted to try going about things.  If I thought I could grow and create the wide range of experiences I’ve had while living abroad at home, I would be in the States now.  But I’m here.  And trying to work things out on my own terms.

I guess what I’m trying to say is that past few weeks have been spent thinking a lot about what I am doing, why I am blogging and what I want to be working toward…and I’m finally ready to refocus my intentions and get this year started.

Hopefully with a trip to the beach sometime in the near future…this is a travel blog after all.

 

If you’re in the same boat as me, you may want to check out these other travelers and writers who are also figuring out life one place at a time:

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>> The Honeymoon’s Over >>

03Jan

I first visited Thailand more than three years ago for a quick trip.  Before those two weeks were even up, I already knew that I wanted to return and spend more time soaking up this country.  It felt so alive – dirty and beautiful – somewhere that felt completely new to me but where I could be completely comfortable at the same time.  The delicious, cheap food didn’t hurt either.

Mae Rim

When I left home and moved to Chiang Mai I thought it would be a good place to start traveling through SE Asia.  I didn’t think I’d still be living here 16 months later.  But I loved it.  Not everything was great, but the good, new and interesting far outweighed the frustrations, work challenges and mosquito bites.

But now things have…shifted.  I still love it – I always will – but while I used to feel like I was growing, learning and seeing everything around me with fresh eyes, I’m now starting to feel a little too settled, familiar and less appreciative of everything around me.  Minor things have started to bother me – like having to pay ‘foreigner fees’ for certain places, making small social or cultural errors, and trying to dodge the tourists slowly meandering down the middle of the street.

I’m getting closer to the point where I feel like Chiang Mai, and Thailand, have given me almost all they can…for now.  I’ve tried most of the foods, I’ve been to the temples literally hundreds of times, I’m sick of the constant mosquito bites and people calling me a farang.

Wat Phra Singh in Chiang Mai

I truly will never get sick of the temples though…Wat Phra Singh in Chiang Mai

The honeymoon’s over.

But that doesn’t mean I’m desperate to leave.  It’s more complicated than that.  In the time that I’ve been here I’ve collected experiences, relationships and attachments (mainly a strong penchant for sticky rice, sweetened condensed milk and navigating Thai traffic…) that I don’t know if I’m ready to let go of yet.  Chiang Mai has a way of kind of sucking you in…it’s very easy to be comfortable and content here.  And the weather is just about perfect.

So what to do?

How do you know when it’s time to call it quits and move on when you know you’ll be leaving part of yourself behind?  Let me know your thoughts in the comments below.

Chiang Mai from Doi Suthep

View of Chiang Mai taken from Doi Suthep

 

 

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>> Photographing People: Right or Wrong? >>

07Dec

I have an issue with taking pictures of people when traveling.

In the past year and half going through Thailand, India, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam I’ve come across several situations of travelers snapping away at locals.  Sometimes it’s in a situation that I find okay – like, say, with a tour guide who really makes you laugh (and you’re paying) or when there’s some type of display, gathering or performance.

Thai Drag Queen in Chiang Mai

THIS is okay to take a picture of…he’s asking for it

But more often than not, it makes me uncomfortable.  Like, really ,uncomfortable.  Sure, I understand when you see something or someone different than you who’s intriguing that you want to capture the moment.  People are always more interesting than things…and you see a lot of interesting people when you’re moving from place to place.  But is it okay?  Appropriate?  Polite?

What if you go somewhere where people are part of the attraction – like a Thai hill tribe or artisan factory?  (Interesting take on Thai hill tribes here.)  What about the people just minding their own business working at a noodle stand?  Or a group of students walking to school all in their matching uniforms?

Long Neck Karen Woman in Thailand

I often see it as at least annoying, but usually invasive.  Many times people are going about their daily lives, and while it’s different from yours, they’re not putting on a show for you.  If I had tourists taking pictures of me while I walked from the train station to work everyday in Seattle, I wouldn’t have liked it at all and felt uncomfortable.  I don’t want other people thinking that I see them as an object of amusement.

Take Luang Prabang in Laos for example – here is a place where the daily morning practice of giving alms to the monks is still very apparent.  It’s one of the only places where you can easily see hundreds of monks walking through the city collecting food from the townspeople.  It’s beautiful and and peaceful and so different from home.  But it’s gotten to the point that while the monks are walking around, the streets are crawling with snap-happy tourists, many who don’t seem to think much about discretion.  I saw travelers with huge cameras following the monks and crouching around them  – or sometimes even standing above them which is considered majorly disrespectful – and shoving their lens into the faces of 8-year-old novices.  Not okay.

Exhibit A:

Monks & tourists in Luang Prabang

I know I’m a hypocrite…but it’s for the sake of argument, dangit!  And I’m keeping my distance.

It ruins a certain aspect of the practice and shows a clear lack of respect for the people living there trying to go about their normal lives.  I visited during the rainy season, but I can’t imagine what it’s like in the high season.

Also…why, when you’re somewhere other than home, does it seem to be okay to take pictures of children?  Would you ever see a cute, little kid at home and whip out your camera?  No, probably not.  It’s weird.

Boy in Sapa, Vietnam

Oh, but he’s so cute…

Black Hmong Women in Sapa, Vietnam

Women from the Black Hmong tribe during a trek in Sapa

On the other hand, there have also been many times in the past 18 months that I’ve been the object of people’s viewfinders.  Like in India, the land of staring and being too close for comfort, I even had someone thrust their baby into my arms and start taking photos.  It’s natural to be interested in people who are different from you – who look different, speak differently, do things differently.  It’s not necessarily rude or offensive, simply curiosity and genuine interest in other people.

But there still should be limits and awareness of other people’s privacy and anonymity.

What do you think?  Where are your boundaries when it comes to taking pictures of people?

 

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