I’ve posted before about how I love the designs, patterns and intricate details of the Grand Palace in Bangkok. You never know where to look because there are so many buildings, colors, paintings and decorations completely surrounding you. What makes everything more incredible is that you can tell many things were painstakingly done by hand – and still are – like tiling a roof in the middle of a hot day.
The Bolaven Plateau in southern Laos is known for jungles, coffee and waterfalls. Like this one.
Usually I don’t go on group tours, you never know what it’s going to be like or who will be in your group – but while staying on the plateau I signed myself up for a day trip as I was traveling alone and didn’t have personal transportation. I also am usually wary of random waterfalls or scenic stops on these types of package deals – sometimes they’re great and other times they’re…well, you don’t really understand what you’re stopping for.
This one about an hour outside of Pakse however did not disappoint. The overall cooler climate of the plateau was also a welcome relief from the hot stickiness of everywhere else during the rainy season.
Been to the Bolaven Plateau? What was your favorite part?
It’s no secret that I love all the Buddhist temples or wats. I go to new ones every week, can’t stop taking photos of the same ones over and over, and have even gone on a 7-hour motorbike ride to visit one that’s supposedly special for my birthday. On New Year’s Day I spent the morning with a certain someone going around town to nine different wats. The number 9 is considered lucky in Thailand as it sounds similar to the word for ‘move forward’. Therefore, making merit (giving donations or offerings) at nine temples at the start of the new year is supposed to bring good luck.
New Year’s Day at Wat Pan Tao
I’ve heard many people of the mindset that ‘once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all’. I can understand this – many temples do look similar and obviously have the same themes, designs and motifs – but I still would disagree. Two of my favorite temples in Chiang Mai (which is saying something since there are more than 300 in the city and surrounding area) couldn’t look more different from each other.
Wat Pan Tao (วัดพันเตา)
Located in the center of the old city, Wat Pan Tao is one of the few remaining wooden temples in town. Compared to many of the large, white-washed temples (including the massive Wat Chedi Luang just next door), Wat Pan Tao is small and unassuming but still intriguing – I can’t help but smile every time I pass by.
Its beauty lies in its simplicity – plain teak wood with decorative gold touches.
The temple’s smaller size makes Wat Pan Tao more inviting than others, while the dark wood creates a warm richness of its own. It feels full of belief and tradition without being overwhelming or flashy.
Wat Srisuphan (วัดศรีสุพรรณ)
While at first glance it may look like the White Temple in Chiang Rai, Wat Srisuphan is actually just off Chiang Mai’s Saturday Walking Street (Wualai Road) and..silver.
Don’t tell me you see this everyday…
Throughout Thailand different areas or villages have traditionally had a specialty craft or trade. Just outside of Chiang Mai there are villages known specifically for their woodcarvings, silk, handmade umbrellas and more. Locals know if they want knew furniture to go to Baan Tawai…or if you want silver you should head to Wualai Road. Historically, the area around Wualai was home to many silver and jewelery craftsmen. Today the street is still lined with specialty shops where you can get silver jewelery and silverware straight from the source.
Wat Sriphum is in the middle of all this and in 2004 started a project to create what it calls, ‘The World’s First Silver Shrine’, or ubosot in Thai.
Work in progress
The ubosot has been rebuilt and restored several times throughout the years, but the current Abbot began the initiative to cover the building in silver. The coverings – inside and out – are all handmade by local, Northern Thai artists mainly out of alloy and zinc, though real silver is used for the holy images. The project has also developed an active a silversmith workshop and learning center on temple grounds to help production and train new craftsmen. Throughout the day you’ll hear the tap, tap, tap of tools hammering out new designs and coverings.
Still think all temples look the same?
Been to Thailand – where was your favorite wat? Tell me in the comments section below and for more Chiang Mai pictures go to the Paper Planes Facebook Page!
Situated two hours north of Vientiane in Laos, Vang Vieng is (in)famous for drunken wasted incoherent backpackers, tubing the river between countless bars, mud volleyball, rope swings and water slides, then wasting away resting in restaurants that all serve the same thing and that all have Friends and Family Guy episodes on 24/7 repeat. (Actually, this stop on the backpacker trail may be no longer…or at least very, very different.)
When backpacking solo around SE Asia I almost didn’t go to Vang Vieng. It sounded like it could be fun…but more likely that it would just be one big hot mess and I would be irritated being by myself and surrounded by drunken groups of gap year students. I’d heard that it was tourism gone way, way wrong. The town was ruined. I went anyway telling myself I could check it off the list and leave the next day if I wanted to.
And while I feel kind of funny admitting it…I enjoyed myself more there than any other place in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Yes, all the rumors were true, but at the same time, I met a good group of people who stuck together for several days, I hadn’t watched any TV in months so it was a nice break to be able to veg out a bit with cheap food, beer and Joey and Chandler…and Vang Vieng is really, really beautiful.
The karst mountains you see in the background of the photo are fascinating and look so exotic compared to mountains I know at home. To float down the river (after the bars) and be surrounded by these mountains, jungle and greenery was magical (maybe someone who was comatose at this point would disagree with me but…). And there’s more to Vang Vieng than baguette sandwiches, beer and bars. We went kayaking, we explored caves along the river where we had to pull ourselves through in an inner tube because the opening was too low, and the water too deep to walk through, we saw Buddha shrines and views of the sleepy little huts. Aside from the partying and bars, it really was peaceful and beautiful. Will I ever go back? No, probably not…but I’m glad I did and have this moment in my memory.
Despite my last post being a little…questioning…I love Chiang Mai – I mean, I’ve stayed here about a year longer than I initially expected. I’m kind of a fan. But the town it itself can be…dingy. There are some really charming, even beautiful, spots and the city is relatively clean, but there are also a lot of areas that look worn out. There aren’t a ton of trees or green spaces, and hastily thrown together ‘coffee shops’, tourist agencies and guest houses clutter the streets. If someone was only passing through town and here for a couple of days I could understand if they were…underwhelmed.
The real beauty of Chiang Mai lies outside of town in the country roads, hills and jungles. And while it may seem easier to stay in around the city center, it really doesn’t take much effort to go further out.
View from Mon Cham
The best thing about being able to live or spend more time in a place is discovering the things, places and activities outside of the immediate tourist track. I never would have heard about or gone to the following three spots if I hadn’t spent a lot of time here, but they’re each an easy trip just outside of town perfect for a morning excursion or afternoon break.
Huay Tung Tao – One of the most simple and enjoyable things I’ve done here is spend an afternoon at lake Huay Tung Tao. Located just a quick 25-30 minutes from Chiang Mai’s city center, visitors can spend hours in a cabana by the water ordering drinks and dishes to share from the restaurants situated around the lake.
The Samoeng Loop – It’s no secret that I love motorbikes. Whether driving or riding, I’m completely content to spend all day watching everything pass by. It really is the best way to see Northern Thailand (and Southeast Asia general) and isn’t as intimidating as it might seem when you first touch down in the Land of Smiles. There are plenty of drives just outside of town and one of the best is the Samoeng Loop. Good roads, interesting stops and great views make the trip an easy getaway. While the first part of the drive takes you through I guess what you would call Thai suburban sprawl, once you get on the main road and away from town the hills will open up for you.
Mon Cham – A Royal Project site (Thailand’s Royal Family has various agricultural projects throughout the country helping villages and hill tribes better produce crops), Mon Cham is essentially a strawberry field in the hills – with a killer view (just look at the first photo). Enjoy the drive up (less than an hour and a half from town) Come here for the nice drive and stay for lunch at the garden’s outdoor restaurant situated right on the ridge. While not many tourists know about the spot, Thais certainly do and travel up here for numerous photo opps. At 9am on a Friday morning I was one of two foreigners taking in the view, but was surprised by the number of songthaews, cars and tour minivans that were already there. It still didn’t feel overcrowded though and was a great example of how Thai people love sightseeing…and taking pictures. For those who want to stay longer, there’s camping (tents and bungalows) at Mon Cham as well as at several spots on the road up.
Restaurant with a view at Mon Cham
Live or spent some time in Chiang Mai? What did I miss? Tell me your favorite day trip spot in the comments below. for more photos check out the Paper Planes Facebook Page.
Unexpected mini trips, Christmas, computer problems…the past few weeks have kind of been odd and now I need to get back on the blogging bandwagon and figure out what I’m doing and where I’m going in 2013. A quick look about what’s been going on lately…
Northern Thailand is filled with mountains and jungles – it’s stunning. I’ve done several drives through the areas around Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, but have always wanted to go even further north to the town and province of Mae Hong Son. (Often in Thailand a province’s largest city shares the same name as the province.) After coming back from Malaysia, I haven’t even really left town these past few months and was itching to get out.
The town itself doesn’t offer much. It’s cute but small with not much to do. The real reason of the trip was for the drive – 1864 curves in the road between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son through sun-filled jungly mountains. I would have been completely content just driving around in circles all day…which is actually kind of what it felt like since the roads were so windy and it took about 6 hours.
While there are plenty of buses and minivans going between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, the most rewarding way to go would be by motorbike. Unfortunately, I did the trip by myself and didn’t feel comfortable driving that far alone, so felt like I was kind of missing out on fully enjoying the area. On the plus side, I managed to not get car sick. I have a strong stomach, but 6 hours in a full minibus with three little kids getting sick (1864 curves!) could get to anyone.
Wat Traimit, home to the world’s largest golden Buddha, in Bangkok
Roses and grasshoppers – how romantic…
A day after getting back from Mae Hong Son, I ended up going to Bangkok for a couple nights (still can’t believe that I can just decide to go to Bangkok one moment then hop on a bus to get there the next…) and finally tried eating some bugs. Check that off my list.
Just your typical Christmas Eve entertainment
Then it was Christmas, which in Thailand doesn’t feel anything like Christmas. Even spent with friends – who collectively managed to pull together and impressive spread of green bean casserole, potatoes and gravy, stuffing, roasted chickens, bread, wine and lots of chocolate – Christmas here just feels…like nothing.
Though the spontaneous Mae Hong Song and Bangkok trips helped with my itchy feet, I’ve been trying to be more proactive about getting out and seeing or doing the things I still haven’t done here – particularly trying to go on day or afternoon trips to areas just outside of town.
So there you have it – no big plans, 2012 recaps (although you can check out some of my most popular posts on Wanderlust & Lipstick here) or 2013 resolution posts for this girl, just a quick catch up and now onto getting back into a bit of a routine now that the holidays are (almost) over and I have a working computer again (fingers crossed).
It always seems like there’s some cool celebration, festival or holiday going on…somewhere else. I’ve never been to Oktoberfest, Holi, the running of the bulls or Glastonbury BUT for once I’m in the right place at the right time.
Thailand’s Loi Krathong festival is known as ‘Yi Peng’ in the north
Every year on the full moon of the 12th lunar month, Thailand celebrates ‘Loi Krathong’ (ลอยกระทง), or Yi Peng (ยี่เป็ง) as it’s known in the north. To those outside of Thailand it’s best known as ‘That Lantern festival’ – and for good reason – there are a lot of lanterns.
Lighting our floating lantern (khom loi)
Though festivities happen throughout the country, Chiang Mai is by far the best place to experience this beautiful holiday of lights, floats, fireworks and lanterns. (To learn more about the holiday and how it’s celebrated check out my guide to Loi Krathong on Wanderlust and Lipstick.) While the actual holiday falls on the full moon, there is a always a huge lantern release several days before, about 30 minutes outside of Chiang Mai in the town on Mae Jo. This year Loi Krathong will be celebrated on November 28th and 29th, but the stunning release was this past Saturday.
Thousands of people gather at a Buddhist temple for a special meditation ceremony then the release of thousands of floating lanterns into the night sky. It’s incredible how something so simple as a lit up bag slowing rising in the sky can be so mesmerizing. There really are no words for the sensational sight…so I’ll let the pictures do the talking.
For hours of waiting and protecting our spot on the temple grounds (and then getting stranded in a sudden lightning storm with no power and having our driver ditch us)…this was our reward:
This is it…
Worth it.
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During my last visit to Bangkok, I took a day trip to the ancient kingdom of Ayutthaya. About an hour (well, technically one hour, but more like three due to traffic…) outside of Bangkok, Ayutthaya existed from 1350 – 1767 when the Burmese invaded and took the city.
In its heyday, Ayutthaya boasted three palaces and 400 temples. Today the city has grown around the ruined temples and crumbling chedis.
At the height of its power Ayutthaya was said to be just as grand as the European capitals at that same time. It’s easy to see that the ancient capital was massive, but the ruins that are left – a shadow of what once was. While it can’t compare to the temples of Angkor or Bagan, there’s still a lot to see – perfect for a day trip – especially for anyone who appreciates some good temple-hopping.
I really didn’t know much about Ayutthaya, or what to expect, before I went. I originally had seen a picture on a postcard three years ago, when I first came to Thailand for a two-week holiday, of the famous Buddha head wrapped in a tree trunk at Wat Mahathat and it stuck in my memory. I knew that if when I made it back to Thailand I wanted to see it in real life – that was my true motivation for trying to get there. And it was beautiful.
The Grand Palace buildings and grounds are so massive and intricately decorated that it’s hard to know where to look.
Which is why instead of trying to capture the buildings as a whole, I instead focused on wandering around and appreciating the painstakingly detailed patterns, mosaics, mirrors and carvings.
Even all the roofs are individually tiled.
Since I’ve been away from home I have been much better at appreciating the little things, pausing throughout the day to notice something new or stopping for a moment to realize how lucky I am to experience whatever beautiful, funny, confusing place I happen to be in.
Each Monday, I’ll post a quick blurb about something that has struck me in someway.
Sooo…
When I think of Chiang Dao, about an hour and a half outside of Chiang Mai, I picture stunning mountains, lush jungle, and lots of green. This is probably my only photo from a two-night getaway to Chiang Dao that doesn’t involve trees or plants…it was also probably one of my only moments – ever – while exploring a new place that I actually felt like I had found something.
We stumbled across an entry to a cave on the edge of some temple grounds. There was building going on and it looked off limits, but the local woman sweeping beckoned us to go in and look. A shrine, a nun and no one else around.
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To read more about Chiang Dao, check out ‘Chillaxin’ in Chiang Dao’ over at Wanderlust and Lipstick.
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