Entries Tagged as 'the goods'

>> Chiang Mai Market Guide – Part I >>

02May

While I’m not a big shopper, I do enjoy meandering through the market streets taking in all the lights and colors and doing a bit of people-watching.  It never fails to amaze me how much stuff is available and how  everything is completely set up and taken down whenever the markets runs, whether it’s weekly or even daily.

Ansuarn Market, Chiang Mai

One of the many night markets in Chiang Mai

I’ve shown you glimpses of the student market and the Saturday Walking Street in Chiang Mai before, but that was barely skimming the surface on the regular, outdoor markets the city has to offer.  So, I’ve (attempted to) put together a series of posts listing out the different markets I take people to visiting Chiang Mai.  This first post – of a 3-part series – includes the more well-known shopping spots of the Chiang Mai markets, but check back in the next couple weeks for Parts II and III for more local finds you probably wouldn’t hear about if you were just in town for a few days.

Sunday Walking Street

Sunday Walking Street, Chiang Mai

Probably the best known market, the Sunday Walking Street runs, well, every Sunday.  Though it’s considered a night market, people have been setting up their tables earlier and earlier (beginning as early as 11 in the morning) and by 5:30 most stalls are ready to go.  The market starts at Tha Pae Gate and goes all the way along Ratchadamnoen Road until Wat Phra Singh in the center of the old city (about 1.5 km).  This is the place for souvenirs, t-shirts, artwork, hand made items and just about everything in between.  There are two large food areas set up toward the beginning of the market on temple grounds and small stalls set up the entire way.

While I highly recommend going, be warned that it is crowded.  Very crowded.  Especially in the high season, it’s not uncommon for you to be jammed up next to people inching your way along.  To get from end to end when it’s this busy can easily take an hour+ even if you’re not stopping too much along the way.  I like going before it gets dark out while there’s less people and a kind of calm before the masses hit.  It’s also one of the best places to see the 6 o’clock national anthem and moment of stillness.  Everyone will be moving around but as soon as the first notes come over the loud speaker everyone stands still for the length of the song.

  • When:  Sundays, around 4:30/5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m. (ish)
  • Where: Tha Pae Gate and Ratchadamnoen Road
Saturday Walking Street
Saturday Walking Street, Chiang Mai, Thailand

One of my favs

The Saturday Walking Street is basically like the Sunday Walking Street, but a little smaller and more manageable.  As I’ve already written about here, it’s one of the markets I enjoy the most because of the size and mix of people that go to it each week.  The Sunday night market also has a variety of people, but since it’s so large and well-known, many tour groups (Thai, Chinese and Western) come in for the evening.

  • When:  Saturdays, around 5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
  • Where: Wualai Road (moving southwest away from Chiang Mai Gate (south gate)
Night Bazaar

Night Bazaar, Chiang Mai

Honestly, I really don’t like the Night Bazaar, but if you were looking to do some major shopping or have things on your list you want to buy and aren’t in town over the weekend, it’s a good place to go.  It’s massive and has many different parts to it – there are stalls lining the street (and making the sidewalks very narrow/crowded), as well as several permanent building structures with floors of shops and two market courtyard areas with more shops, tables, bars and restaurants.

This area is entirely geared toward tourists – you won’t see many locals shopping around,  In fact, many of the people working the stalls aren’t even Thai, but Lao or Burmese.  The merchandise is usually marked up a bit from the walking streets and food is heavily overpriced.  For example, usually I can buy the very basic Thai dish kai jio moo sap (Thai omelet with minced pork over rice) for 25 – 30 baht.  At the Night Bazaar, this – just rice and egg! – is going for around 60 baht with stir-fried mixed vegetables (another super simple dish) going for 80 – 90 baht.  There are also several Western-food sit down restaurants as well as fast-food places like McDonald’s, Burger King and Subway.

  • When:  Nightly, Sunday nights are usually quieter because of the Walking Street
  • Where: Chang Khlang Road on the east side of town

Be sure to check back soon for the next installment of this Chiang Market series.

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>> Moment in: Mae Sai >>

22Apr
can you spot the shopkeeper?

Can you spot the shopkeeper?

After living in Northern Thailand for a while chances are you’ll get used to (and bored of) visa runs to the Thai-Burmese border at Mae Sai.  There’s really not much there to hold your interest too long – on either side of the border – and while I hate the feeling of just wanting to sit and wait for the bus back, after one or two trips you’ve pretty much seen it all.  Markets stalls, more market stalls, and more market stalls selling dried goods, cheap clothes, electronics and fake watches.

So I’ve made a game of wandering around killing time called, ‘Spot the Shopkeeper’.  Do you see the two in the photos above?

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>> Surprising Money Sucks in Thailand >>

11Apr

Last week I wrote about how much money I made teaching in Thailand and monthly break down of my expenses here.  Today, I want to call out some money sucks of living and traveling in Thailand.

Phad Thai

Cheap phad thai is not one them, beer can be…

While it’s incredibly affordable to live and travel here, I’ve still heard many people complain that they’re spending a lot of money and don’t think it’s as cheap as they’ve heard.

Mmkay.  Actually it is, but perhaps because it’s so affordable you’re spending more, since your money goes further and you don’t have to be as budget-conscious as in other places.

A couple examples – #1:  I’ve never spent money on massages or spa treatments in the U.S.  Here I will regularly go for a massage costing anywhere from about $6 – 8 for a two-hour Thai massage at a small shop, to $35 for a package (massage, facial, body scrub) at a nicer place.  (Of course, there’s also the really high end places that can charge into the hundreds, but are still more bang for your buck than at home.)  So, I’ve spent much more money here on spa trips than I ever did at home, yet got much more for the same amount than I would have at home.

#2: You’d probably be careful of your food expenses traveling through Europe, maybe saving that banana from breakfast or making sandwiches to last you for a few days.  Here, that really wouldn’t help you much when you can get a hot and and fresh meal for about $1 (I regularly post what you can buy for $1 on my Facebook Page).  If you can eat dinner for as little as $1, then that means more cash for booze!  And there goes your  money…

Chang Beer

Goodbye money, hello Chang-over…

There are things that quickly eat into your budget however.  Even if they’re relatively cheap compared to the prices you’re used to at home, once you think about how much you can actually stretch your dollar here, those things don’t seem like such a good deal anymore.  Keep in mind that $1 equals about 30 baht.

  • Snacks and soda – When you know a meal can be as little as $1, it’s hard to justify spending the same amount on soda (cans of Coke cost 14 – 15 baht, or about 50 cents), chips or sweets from 7-11.
  • Alcohol – It may be cheaper than home, but relatively speaking alcohol is actually pretty pricey here and can easily add up, especially depending on where you’re doing your drinking.  A large bottle of beer at the store is 45 – 55 baht, but prices can be jacked up to 120 baht or more.  Cocktails, even at decently-priced places start around 90 baht and quickly go up, particularly when you ask for a name brand or imported spirit.
  • Water – While I still use the tap water to brush my teeth and wash my dishes (I know it’s safe enough at my home and in the area where I live, but I wouldn’t do this everywhere), I never drink or cook with it.  That means I need to buy it bottled.  There are several ways to keep the cost, and amount of plastic waste, down, but the big one is to buy the largest container of water possible.  You can get 1.5 liter bottles everywhere, which is good, but it’s better if you purchase a 5 liter bottle then fill up smaller containers as needed.
  • Yoga – It’s not overly expensive, but it’s not cheap either.  Classes in Chiang Mai cost about $6 – 8 for 1.5 hours.  This is still a fine price, but it is definitely something to consider while figuring out your budget and what other things you can get for the same amount of money.  Many people take a mini-bus between Chiang Mai and the popular little mountain town of Pai.  The ticket for the three-hour journey is 150 baht, less than one yoga class.
  • Gyms – I spent more for a gym membership here than I did at home at about $40 a month.
  • Cheese and wine – Usually, I base my happiness level on how much cheese, wine (and chocolate) I’m able to consume.  Here I’ve had to change that measurement as cheese and wine is EXPENSIVE and usually not worth it.  The cheapest bottle of so-so wine I can find is around $12 and cheese is a luxury.  Sometimes, though, after living off of rice for a while it’s a splurge that just has to be made!
  • Tuk tuks – Tuks tuks are the most expensive form of local transportation and you never know if you’re going to get a good deal.  I love ‘em, but taking a shared taxi, like the songthaews in Chiang Mai, or a regular taxi in Bangkok is more cost efficient.
  • Islands – I’m still always surprised by how much higher the cost of everything is down south.  The last time I went to an island I was sure, after being here for a while, that I had figured out of a few tricks to save money.  Nope.  For most things there was no choice to do it cheaper.
Longtail Boat on Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Longtail Boat on Koh Phi Phi

In the end the cheap deals and options far outweigh that handful of things costing a bit extra, but it’s good to realize what has the potential of drying up your finances.  What have you found makes your money disappear when traveling through Thailand?

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>> How Much Does It Cost to Live in Thailand? >>

05Apr

So doing my taxes, I realized how much money I actually made teaching in Thailand for 2012…it’s laughable.  Ready?

Laughing Thai figurines

laughable…

$6,000

After I had a minor freak out (I made more money when I was a teenager!) I took a step back to look at how I could still be so comfortable after making such a low amount.

First of all, a couple notes about salaries for teaching in Thailand and why I made so little.

Thai School Office

My office at a Thai high school

You don’t get much.  Obviously.  Out of the Asian countries, foreign teachers’ salaries in Thailand are some of the lowest.  Within Thailand, Chiang Mai schools tend to pay the least (Why? There are a ton of schools and jobs here, but there are also a ton of Westerners looking to fill those positions and overall the cost of living here is very low), so just starting out, I wasn’t in the best place to make the big bucks.  On top of all that, when I was teaching full time, I was at a school that paid the least amount possible…so…yeah.

I would say the average monthly salary for teaching full time in the north is between 27,000 – 30,000 baht or about $900-1,000.  (30 baht roughly equals $1.oo.)  I know several people in positions that are making 35,000 – 40,000 baht which is very good and more than you need to live here.

I was making 23,000 baht a month working about 45 hours a week at a high school and then trying to supplement that by teaching lessons at a language school in the evenings and on the weekends.  The Thai school calendar is completely different from the Western calendar and ‘summer’ break is from March-May, so I only had this salary for two months of 2012.  During that break I visited home and then came back to Thailand looking to piece together work instead working in one place full time.  Essentially I didn’t really teach and make any money for almost two months.

After that I picked up regular lessons at the language school, as well as a primary school and daycare, while also having a couple private students on the side.  Doing this I was able to make close to 30,000 a month – and without being stuck in the same place for 40+ hours a week!  I kept this up through the beginning of October then gave up teaching.

In the end, that $6,000 came from about nine months of working.  Slightly better than thinking it was over an entire year, but still…

So, how can I survive?  How much does it cost to live in Thailand?

First of all I can be a little stingy  frugal at times – I actually even managed to save about $2,000 from September 2011 – October 2012 while not even making $1,000 a month.  But the main reason is that living in Thailand is very, very cheap.  (For comparison, while I was on the low end of the foreign teacher’s salary with 23,000 baht, many of the Thai teachers at my school were supposedly making around 8,000 a month.  That’s a whole other issue, but the point is, I was doing just fine.)

Thai Baht

Ballin’

Below is a basic breakdown of my monthly living expenses.

  • Rent: 4,000 baht (living room, bedroom, bathroom and kitchen with cable and wi-fi included)
  • Utilities: 200 baht (water and electricity)
  • Phone: 300 baht (I have a basic, no frills cell phone that I mainly use as an alarm and calculator.  I bought the phone and SIM card when I first came then just buy minutes every few weeks.)
  • Gas: 300 – 500 baht (it costs about $3.50 to completely fill the tank of my Honda Wave motorbike)
  • Laundry: 300 baht (I get my laundry done for me about every week and a half, 30B/kg for wash, dry, fold and iron)
  • Food: about 4,000 baht
  • Snacks: about 500 baht (I don’t really need that banana-filled, fried rotee with sweetened condensed milk…but it does make my stay here sweeter)
  • Drinks: about 1,500 (the coffee and alcohol add up, especially compared to the full meals you can get on the street for about $1)
  • Toiletries: 200 baht (toilet paper, shampoo, etc.)
  • Entertainment/shopping: 1,000 baht (I’m not a big shopper, massages are about $5-7, and most of my other entertainment was usually free – or close to it – plus the cost of drinks or something, i.e. open mic nights, going for a Sundy drive, etc.)
  • Miscellaneous: let’s say 2,000 – 2,500 baht to be on the safe side (Obviously this varies, but I think this would be generous estimate.  Medicine is fairly cheap and accessible, it costs me $3 to fix a flat tire – which I get every couple of months – and even going to the dentist for a cleaning is only around $60)

TOTAL: 15,000 baht or $500.

Say that was my average cost of living for the entire year and the total would come to $6,000 – what I actually made.

Of course, I did spend a little more than this.  The outline above doesn’t include visa fees, trips (including a plane tickets halfway around the world), rental deposits, letting loose a little when visitors were in town or motorbike payments.  BUT living here for 15,000 baht per month is completely doable, and isn’t even too difficult.  While I was (am) very careful and aware about my money, I wasn’t depriving myself by any means.

I tended to cook or eat street food, limiting little ‘splurges’ at a restaurant or good coffee shop to once or twice a week and I didn’t go shopping buying new clothes or much for my living space.

h Street Coffee and Alcohol

These two drinks at a trendy cafe are the equivalent of about five street food dishes

I lived completely comfortably, both by Thai and Western standards – I got my laundry done for me!  I could get a house cleaner!  Crazy.

So there you have it – the basic breakdown of what it could cost to live in Thailand.  Of course, what it actually costs is up to you, your tastes and spending habits.  Over the next couple of weeks I’ll be sharing more posts on how to save and spend money in the Land of Smiles.  To make sure you don’t miss them, please subscribe to my RSS feed here.

Have questions?  Ask me in the comments below or on Twitter.

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>> Moment of: Vietnamese Floating Entrepreneurs >>

18Mar

Tam Coc, Vietnam

When traveling solo through Vietnam I a) didn’t know what the heck I was doing b) didn’t know where I should go visit and c) actually spent a lot of time alone.  You hear that if you travel by yourself you’re rarely ever truly alone since it’s so easy to meet people along the way.  This is often true…but sometimes the universe conspires to make you question if the whole independent trip was really such a good idea to begin with.

Like when you’re the ONLY traveler to get off a packed night bus in a small town at 10 p.m.

Which is what I found myself doing in Ninh Binh about an hour and a half outside of Hanoi.  I then was one of two guests staying in the guest house I was ushered to.  Seems legit.  Because I had no clue what to do, or any one to do it with, I ended up hiring a motorbike guide for the morning to take me out to the surrounding area and Tam Coc, or ‘three caves’, in particular.

Here I go into a row boat – which the man paddled the oars with his FEET (and refused to let me take a picture) – to go out to the low caves.  The entire trip to the caves and back wasn’t very far, only taking about 45 minutes, but led you through some serene waterways lined by rice fields and karst cliffs.

Beautiful, relaxing and peaceful.

That is, until you came to the caves and had floating convenient stores waiting for you.  Clever and enterprising, but also annoying and uncomfortable when you’re in a boat by yourself in the middle of nowhere with pushy sales people.  In fact, after giving in and buying a water, several women then pressured me to buy a snack for the foot-paddling boat man…which I’m pretty sure he probably just gave back to them to resell on his next round through.

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>> The Student Market, Chiang Mai >>

15Mar
Last month I wrote about the Saturday Walking Street in Chiang Mai and am currently working on a round up of all the Chiang Mai markets – there’s a lot!  There are different types of markets in different parts of town opening up and shutting down throughout the day and night.  A few are well known to visitors, but many you probably wouldn’t hear about if you were just visiting for a little bit, like one of the student markets near Chiang Mai University.
Chiang Mai Student Market Clothing
กาดหน้ามอ is also known as the ‘front gate market’ or, by expats, ‘the student market’.  Located on Huay Gaew road across from the front gate (get it, get it??) of the university, the market is open nightly catering to the the 35,000+ students staying in the area.  Every time I’ve gone, I’ve been one of maybe five foreigners perusing the aisles.
Here you can get cheap new and used clothing (if you can fit into the Thai sizes), shoes, watches and sunglasses, and stock up on your colored, big eye contact lenses.
Take your pick

Take your pick

There’s also a large food area with Thai dishes, snacks and sweets, as well as several Japanese and moo ka ta (Thai barbeque) places.
Chiang Mai Student Market food
The market opens around 6:00, but probably the best time to come for a bite and to check out the latest Thai fashions (always entertaining – see below) is between 7:00 – 9:30 p.m.  After that things start shutting down and before you know it, it will be gone as most of the clothing stalls are set up and taken down each day.
Chiang Mai Student Market Clothing Shop

This is where I come for my Dorothy shorts and belly shirt to go with my Mickey Mouse ears baseball cap…naturally

Chiang Mai Student Market Gold Shorts

I actually am kind of wondering if I could rock these…

What different types of markets do you like to visit on your travels?  Tell me in the comments…

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>> Moment in: a Burmese Market >>

04Mar

Market in Tachilek, Burma

Immediately across the Thai-Burmese border at Mae Sai is a dense market selling everything from knock off designer bags, to bedding, to Buddha statues, to a whole lotta copied DVDs.  It kind of reminded me of crossing the border into Mexico and immediately being bombarded with discounted cartons of cigarettes, gum and cans of soda…

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>> Chiang Mai’s Saturday Walking Street >>

19Feb

Chiang Mai has many markets running throughout the day and night.  You could find an open-air market crowded with people at any hour if you knew where to look.  The most well-known night markets for travelers include the overbearing Night Bazaar which is open nightly and geared solely to tourists, the quieter (though still busy) Saturday Walking Street and the long Sunday Walking Street through the very center of town.

Out of these three I have a soft spot for the Saturday market found south of the city on Wualai Road (the same street as the silver temple).

Saturday Walking Street, Chiang Mai

This is the first market I went to in Chiang Mai after moving here, and also the one closest to my home.  For several months I did the weekly walk from my home to wander the street filled with people, colors, lights, food, and interesting – sometimes questionable – items for sale.

Gumdrops for sale

Exhibit A

Even though I’ve now seen the same things, the same set up, the same people again and again, I still enjoy the rhythm of the market.  The soft buzz in the air as vendors are laying out their goods and the sun is going down, the people slowing rambling down the rows of tables stopping to look at something that caught their eye, the light and activity around the food centers.  No one is in too much of a rush (which can be annoying when you actually know what you need and are trying to make it to the right stall) and, just in case it gets too stressful or you get tired, there are plenty of spots to stop for a foot massage ($2 for half an hour) and people-watch.

Thai lights

Street food - Fried Eggs

The main reason why I like this market the best out of the three main night markets is the mix of people that go to it.  There are obviously many tourists but, unlike the night bazaar, it still is a local market and more manageable than the Sunday one.

Banana leaf hats, Thailand

While travelers may be buying hand-stitched bags and Chiang Mai t-shirts, the Thais are buying plants and loofahs as they slurp down black jelly.

Thai purses

Thai Plants

Fresh juice, Thailand

I also know that I’ll always see my favorite street performer who plays an uplifting ukulele number while tapping his toe on a tambourine.

Thai Street Performer

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>> The World of Thai Amulets >>

21Dec

One of my favorite discoveries in Bangkok is a large amulet market found close to the Grand Palace (about a 10-minute walk) on Prachan Road.  It’s unlike anything I’ve seen before and increased my interest to know more about the fascination with Buddhist amulets in Thailand.  Why do so many people wear them?  What do they mean?  Why are they believed to have powers?  How can you tell if one’s ‘real’ or not?

Thai Amulets in Bangkok

Amulets in Bangkok

 Thai Buddhist amulets come in all shapes and sizes.  You’ll see rich men with large pieces in gold and diamond cases, old men with more then ten dangling from a chain, women with small, tasteful gold Buddhas on a thin Thai gold (sooo yellow!) necklace and toddlers with a tiny charm.  People seek the amulets out for their blessings, security and magical powers.  Generally speaking, they are meant to protect you – protect you from harm, accidents, danger, bad business, bad people, bad luck (the belief in luck plays a very important role in day to day Thai life, but that’s for a different post).  Some are thought to have greater protection for certain things or provide good luck in certain areas of your life.

What makes them so special?  They’re made by monks, often who are well-known for their own magical or meditative powers, who put special symbols and blessings in the amulet.   Amulets that have ‘proven themselves’ by protecting the wearer and got people talking become well known and sought after.  There are many stories of guns not being able to work around special amulets or people wearing a certain amulet and coming away from an accident unscathed.

Thai Amulets

The amulets can be bought all over.  Just walking down the street you’ll see someone with a table set up and men squinting through their magnifying glasses, examining the amulets and seeing if they’re real.  There are also several eBay-type sites for people to bid, buy and sell.  The older, more well-known and more rare they are the pricier they are, with some amulets selling for tens of thousands of dollars.  People will then have their amulets encased in hard plastic to protect them and then have decorative handmade cases cases created to show off their piece.

Thai Amulet with Silver

While I definitely understand more now, thanks to some Thai friends, than I ever would have on my own, I’m still amazed at the sheer quantity of different amulets, knowledge it takes to recognize pieces from specific monks and know the story behind them or if they’re real, and the industry that’s been created around these charms.

What objects have you been intrigued by in other countries?  Was there something everyone seemed to own?

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>> Old vs. New >>

23Nov

I’ve always appreciated the old and natural over the new and plastic.  I like old buildings, old cars, old clothes.  I majored in history and have often felt like I should be living in a different decade.  I prefer making things with my hands than working online.  I don’t have a smartphone.

When I first moved to Thailand several things stood out to me as being ‘old fashioned’ or done in a more natural way than at home.  More clothes are made or fitted by hand.  Tailor shops and single seamstresses working out of their front room are everywhere to make custom clothing and resize school uniforms.  In a time when less people are even wearing watches, here you can get your broken timepiece fixed by a man with a little stand on the side of the street.  Along with getting your shoes resoled.

Samlors in Chiang Mai

Samlors waiting outside a market

Some more examples – above are old-style bicycle taxis known as samlors.  Naturally, before the onslaught of cars and motorbikes, they used to be used much more frequently, and today are mainly reduced to a tourist attraction of sorts.  The only people that seem to use them seriously are old Thai ladies going to and from the fresh markets.

Old letterpress

When I was taking my TEFL course I walked past this print shop everyday where they have not one, but TWO classic Heidelberg letterpresses that they use for printing…fliers.  Fliers!  And invitations, but still.  Here you see one of the press and racks of type that the man who owns the shop and his son have to set by hand for each design.

Traditional Thai Wooden House

Traditional Thai houses were made of teak and raised on stilts to avoid flooding damage and, well, tigers. Though there are still several of these types of houses around, many are worn down and no new ones are being built.  You can see in the image below an older house by newer buildings and hotels.

Sweeta Wrapped in Banana Leaves

Southeast Asia is the world’s winner for using the most plastic bags possible.  It’s not just that there’s no awareness about trying to use reusable bags instead of plastic when going to the market or grocery store; it’s like there’s an unspoken competition to use as many bags for your purchases as physically possible.  I’ve literally bought three small things before and had them placed into three separate bags.  I don’t get it.  My favorite is when I see someone buy a bottle of tea or can of soda, have it put in a bag to carry out, then open it up and start drinking still hold on to the bag.

Anyway, on the other end of the spectrum, gigantic banana leaves are abundant and often used to wrap, package and cook in.  Above are Thai sweets made from coconut milk that are cooked and then sold in their banana leaf wrappers – so simple, green and sustainable.  Sometimes you can get fried noodle dishes off the street served on a banana leaf instead of in a styrofoam box.  Perfect.

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